Sotheby's[/caption] “As with anything in life, if you buy it and want to sell it the next day, you will not see a return on your investment. If you are not in a rush and look after your piece of jewellery, in 10+ years, you will be realising your investment especially if you have followed the following guidelines,” Jason said.“In order to purchase a piece of jewellery that will grow in monetary value, look for a piece with significantly sized gemstones as a necklace of 30 carats of 0.01-carat diamonds will never appreciate in value like a 10-carat diamond solitaire pendant. This rule works for all precious gemstones.”Jason added: “Quality is a must as you will not realise a profit on a poor colour gemstone full of inclusions. A clear gem, however, in perfect colour will see your returns come back many times over but this must be a natural gem without treatments.“Synthetic gemstones, beryllium and fractured filled stones will not bring a return on your investment whatsoever.”Apart from gemstones, gold jewellery is traditionally regarded as a “safe haven”, often jumping in price during times of geopolitical turmoil: bullion prices surged to the highest level in more than seven years in March 2020 due to concerns over the coronavirus pandemic, for example.In an increasingly uncertain world, 18-carat or 22-carat gold jewellery can be seen as a protector of wealth because of the value of the precious metal on commodity markets.Gold jewellery can be taken to a jewellery shop and scrapped as prices of the yellow metal hit highs.No one can be sure when a stock market bubble may burst or when the next global financial crisis will take place.In March 2020, following a prolonged rally, stock markets entered bear territory due to fears coronavirus could drive the global economy into recession.Rare and beautiful fine jewels can appeal as safe-haven stores of value when other assets fall, and may retain their value in real terms if inflation jumps.Supplies of gold, silver, platinum, palladium, and gemstones such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires, are under pressure due to finite availability and rising demand as incomes and populations grow over the long term.As the incomes of the wealthiest people rise in leading fine jewellery markets such as the United States, China and India, the demand outlook for high jewellery will remain buoyant over the long term.India, which has an expanding middle class comprising hundreds of millions of people, is one of the most dynamic high jewellery markets, with a culture that traditionally embraces gold jewellery.China and India have alternated as the world’s number 1 and 2 consumers of gold, and the strong pace of economic growth of the two countries, notwithstanding coronavirus, is likely to underpin future consumption.“Magnificent” jewellery auctionsThe most visible investment arena for jewellery is the high-value auctions market.At the leading sales of so-called “magnificent jewellery” in Geneva, Hong Kong and New York, extremely rare signed pieces have seen fiercely competitive bidding, notably for heirlooms.Provenance – or the unique story -- of a piece of jewellery can greatly enhance value.In November 2018 a pearl pendant that had belonged to ill-fated French Queen Marie-Antoinette achieved an all-time high price for a pearl of $36 million, a huge multiple of its pre-sale estimate of $1-2 million. [caption id="attachment_16964" align="aligncenter" width="471"]
Sotheby's[/caption] The extraordinary provenance of this pearl – its ties to the last Queen of France, an Austrian Archduchess who married the future King Louis XVI and was executed by guillotine – was a key driver of the sale price.“It is extremely difficult to calculate how much the provenance will add to the value of a piece of jewellery, and in this case much of the price achieved for the pearl pendant was due to its story relating to Marie-Antoinette,” Daniela Mascetti, Chairman Jewellery Europe of Sotheby’s, said after the sale.Some collectors believe that the world record price of $71 million achieved by the 59.60-carat Pink Star diamond at Sotheby’s auction in Hong Kong in April 2017, was a bargain for the buyer, Chinese jeweller Chow Tai Fook.The oval Pink Star smashed the record price for any diamond sold at auction following a brief bidding battle.The justification for such a price was rarity and beauty.The previous world record-holder for a diamond sold at auction was a blue diamond — the 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue, which fetched $57.5 million at a Christie’s auction in Geneva in May 2016.
Asian buyers have figured prominently in purchases of magnificent rare diamonds in the past few years, such as Hong Kong property tycoon Joseph Lau who bought the Blue Moon – another fabulous blue diamond — for a then world record price of $48 million in 2015.Art DecoIn jewellery investment, high jewels from certain periods have performed better than others.Art Deco pieces from the 1920s and 1930s, for example, have seen exceptional demand at recent auctions, as collectors are captivated by the unique designs of that era.Another popular period is the Belle Époque, an age of optimism before the First World War.Signed, or branded, jewels are more collectable than unbranded pieces, with certain houses much sought after, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari.Tiaras have outperformed in the auctions market, helped by Meghan Markle’s decision to wear a diamond tiara at her wedding to Prince Harry in May 2018.Disclaimer: Any opinions expressed in this article are solely those of the author and should not be seen as investment advice.
Paola, what will be the key focus of your webinar?I will discuss how the current crisis will reshape the future of the jewellery business. This is a public service broadcast for the global jewellery industry on Jewellery Outlook.I will discuss how the closure of brick-and-mortar jewellery shops – from the UK to Italy and India -- will lead to big shifts in digital marketing, and I will give a glimpse of key trends and product and consumer directions.Who should join the webinar?I want the webinar to be highly interactive and I will welcome questions. Anyone who works in the global jewellery -- or luxury -- trade will be welcome to join, whether they work in a small independent retail shop or for a great international house like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels.How will the global jewellery landscape change due to coronavirus?My talk is called “CRACKS” because it is inspired by the fault lines that disrupt the Luxury industry as it evolves in new directions across global society.There will be a fundamental reshaping of the industry. Those with the most focused and comprehensive digital and social media marketing strategies will survive and flourish. Old brick-and-mortar style business models will need to rapidly gear up their digital strategies to reach out to people who are locked down at home.While there will be less immediate demand for jewellery at the height of this crisis, as people will be focusing on their families’ health, I predict that as the crisis ends, there will be a burst of pent-up demand for jewellery.People will appreciate the reassurance and emotional well-being that jewellery gives.I wish to instil a strong sentiment of hope as things will get better – the industry will restructure, and will need to step up storytelling and powerful emotional messages to consumers. Paola De Luca is head of The Futurist, a luxury market intelligence agency. She is the Founder of the Trend Vision Jewellery & Forecasting independent observatory of IEG, Italy.Paola has over 20 years’ experience as a leading luxury and jewellery industry creative director and strategist. She is well-known for her public speaking at trade events and for spearheading editorial projects, such as her latest book published by Rizzoli: “Farah Khan: A Bejewelled Life.”https://thefuturist-pdlg.com/
Many Portuguese royal jewels feature Brazilian diamonds.Brazil was also the origin of the 5.11-carat diamond now known as the Moussaieff Red, as well as the 0.95-carat Fancy purplish red Hancock Red.Red diamonds are among the rarest and most prized by collectors.Rui’s ongoing webinar schedule can be found via his Instagram and Facebook pages.
Equity markets, which recovered sharply this week, risk further falls as the gravity of the crisis continues to sink in, with U.S. coronavirus cases now exceeding the total in China.President Trump’s assertion that he hopes to get America back to work again by Easter may be optimistic in view of the current rate of increase of coronavirus cases in the world’s biggest economy.“Physical gold (and silver) seem to be pretty well unobtainable at the moment without the payment of exorbitant premiums,” wrote Lawrie Williams, a gold market columnist for bullion dealer Sharps Pixley.“Indeed the physical price of gold bullion, if one adds in the premium, seems to be thus distancing itself from the spot price asset in the futures markets.“If gold gets into a really short squeeze position given the high level of shorts in the futures market, the price could really take off.”Gold’s appeal as a safe-haven asset seems back to be in force, although bullion risks selloffs to meet margin calls if other assets such as equities slide.Disclaimer: Any opinions expressed in this article are solely those of the author and should not be seen as investment advice.
VICENZAORO January 2020
Upcoming Webinars
Paola, what will be the key focus of your webinar?I will discuss how the current crisis will reshape the future of the jewellery business. This is a public service broadcast for the global jewellery industry on Jewellery Outlook.I will discuss how the closure of brick-and-mortar jewellery shops – from the UK to Italy and India -- will lead to big shifts in digital marketing, and I will give a glimpse of key trends and product and consumer directions.Who should join the webinar?I want the webinar to be highly interactive and I will welcome questions. Anyone who works in the global jewellery -- or luxury -- trade will be welcome to join, whether they work in a small independent retail shop or for a great international house like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels.How will the global jewellery landscape change due to coronavirus?My talk is called “CRACKS” because it is inspired by the fault lines that disrupt the Luxury industry as it evolves in new directions across global society.There will be a fundamental reshaping of the industry. Those with the most focused and comprehensive digital and social media marketing strategies will survive and flourish. Old brick-and-mortar style business models will need to rapidly gear up their digital strategies to reach out to people who are locked down at home.While there will be less immediate demand for jewellery at the height of this crisis, as people will be focusing on their families’ health, I predict that as the crisis ends, there will be a burst of pent-up demand for jewellery.People will appreciate the reassurance and emotional well-being that jewellery gives.I wish to instil a strong sentiment of hope as things will get better – the industry will restructure, and will need to step up storytelling and powerful emotional messages to consumers. Paola De Luca is head of The Futurist, a luxury market intelligence agency. She is the Founder of the Trend Vision Jewellery & Forecasting independent observatory of IEG, Italy.Paola has over 20 years’ experience as a leading luxury and jewellery industry creative director and strategist. She is well-known for her public speaking at trade events and for spearheading editorial projects, such as her latest book published by Rizzoli: “Farah Khan: A Bejewelled Life.”https://thefuturist-pdlg.com/
INTERVIEW – Webinar by Paola De Luca to focus on ways forward through crisis
Gold Market Commentary
Equity markets, which recovered sharply this week, risk further falls as the gravity of the crisis continues to sink in, with U.S. coronavirus cases now exceeding the total in China.President Trump’s assertion that he hopes to get America back to work again by Easter may be optimistic in view of the current rate of increase of coronavirus cases in the world’s biggest economy.“Physical gold (and silver) seem to be pretty well unobtainable at the moment without the payment of exorbitant premiums,” wrote Lawrie Williams, a gold market columnist for bullion dealer Sharps Pixley.“Indeed the physical price of gold bullion, if one adds in the premium, seems to be thus distancing itself from the spot price asset in the futures markets.“If gold gets into a really short squeeze position given the high level of shorts in the futures market, the price could really take off.”Gold’s appeal as a safe-haven asset seems back to be in force, although bullion risks selloffs to meet margin calls if other assets such as equities slide.Disclaimer: Any opinions expressed in this article are solely those of the author and should not be seen as investment advice.
COMMENTARY – Gold poised for strongest week since 2008
COMMENTARY – Gold seen clawing back safe-haven status after flight to cash
Awards
De Beers Group Industry Services shortlisted for ‘Service Supplier of the Year’ at UK Jewellery Awards 2020
March 13, 2020 - De Beers Group Industry Services has been shortlisted for a prestigious accolade in the United Kingdom’s most important trade-only awards, the UK Jewellery Awards.Numerous developments over the last year have led to this recognition, including reinvigorated support for retailers, diamond suppliers and industry groups across the UK, as well as collaborations with leading trade events such as International Jewellery London (IJL).
De Beers Group Industry Services has focused on bolstering customer service in the UK market, specifically across after care sales, instrumentation troubleshooting and retail education.These services have been taken in-house, allowing De Beers Group Industry Services to stay closely connected to relevant customers, suppliers and retailers.The introduction of the award-winning SYNTHdetect XL has contributed to De Beers Group Industry Services’ position on the UK Jewellery Awards shortlist.This piece of technology allows retailers and suppliers to screen multiple finished jewellery pieces and larger single jewellery items for synthetic diamonds.
As part of its service, De Beers Group Industry Services offers retailer-facing training courses and in-house educational initiatives to strengthen diamond knowledge, sales techniques and increase understanding of laboratory-grown diamonds and diamonds across the trade.In addition, its enhanced marketing to B2B press, in addition to consumer-facing events with the likes of Christie’s in London, have served to educate the jewellery buying public, as well as designers, sales associates and retail bosses, on the art of diamond grading.For more information, please visit www.debeersgroupservices.com. 
De Beers Group Industry Services shortlisted for ‘Service Supplier of the...
Nominees chosen for INHORGENTA AWARD 2020
MUNICH, February 2020 - This year, the INHORGENTA AWARD will be presented for the fourth time. More than 120 watches and pieces of jewelry have been submitted for the coveted prize. The jury has now chosen the three finalists in six categories. The nominees for the two Public Choice Awards were chosen via online voting. A new feature in 2020 is the introduction of the second Public Choice category “Best Watch”, which highlights the positive trends in the watch segment at the fair. INHORGENTA MUNICH, Europe’s leading trade fair for timepieces, jewelry, and gemstones will take place at the Munich exhibition center from February 14 to 17. On February 16, the who’s who from the industry will come to Munich for the glamorous INHORGENTA AWARD Gala at BMW Welt to watch excitedly as the trophy is awarded in eight categories. Klaus Dittrich, Chairman and CEO of Messe München, says: “With the INHORGENTA AWARD, we have succeeded in creating real recognition for the creativity and expertise of the industry. Our jury of experienced and qualified experts is decisive in this respect.”These are the nomineesThe 10 jury members applied their professional skills to assess the jewelry and watches that were entered for the award. Taking part in the jury for the first time were Claudia Hofmann, stylist and co-founder of the Fashion Council Germany, and Jörn Kengelbach, editor-in-chief of the ROBB REPORT magazine.In the very popular category “Fine Jewelry”, Capolavoro, A. Odenwald, and Hans D. Krieger came out on top against a strong field of competitors.The “Fashion Jewelry” category had the highest number of entries. As well as Eva Stone two pieces by Bernd Wolf were able to gain a spot amongst the nominees.The “Designer of the Year” category is also hotly contested each year. Guya Merkle, Marion Knorr, and Jutta Ulland can all keep their fingers crossed and hope to win the INHORGENTA AWARD.New talents Jiayi Zhang, Eliana Petsch, and AKA Jewels—Alina Abegg are all vying for the title “Design Newcomer”.Which “Next Generation Retail” concept will be the most convincing? Juwelier Vogl, Jan Spille or Hoffmann Schmuck?Victorinox, Frederique Constant, and Citizen are nominated for the “Watch Design of the Year” category.“The quality of innovative and inspiring jewelry and watches that were entered made it very difficult to choose the nominees. Each year, it is fascinating to see just how much creativity the industry has to offer. This year, there were some very bold pieces to choose from,” says jury member Anja Heiden from the WEMPE management board.The winners of the two Public Choice categories will be decided by the number of online votes they receive. In the category “Best Piece of Jewelry” Jaime Moreno, Capolavoro and Christina Aguilar have an eye on the prize. Garmin, Sternglas und Casio are the nominees for “Best Watch“.The INHORGENTA AWARD: eclectic and internationally popularOnce again this year there is a wide range of entries, including high-quality pieces of jewelry and watches, innovative techniques, and creative designs. Again there was an international field of participants with entries from Greece, Spain, and Denmark, only to mention a few. Stefanie Mändlein, Exhibition Director at INHORGENTA MUNICH, says: “It is amazing to see how popular the award is in the industry—also outside Germany. I look forward to a beautiful evening to celebrate the outstanding performance of the industry in an appropriate setting.”
Nominees chosen for INHORGENTA AWARD 2020
Global jewelry design contest Masters in Creativity (MIC) welcomes applicants
ANTWERP, January 20, 2020 – Applications are welcome for talented designers from around the world to submit inspired and “out-of-the-box” but commercially relevant and wearable jewelry in the Masters in Creativity (MIC) jewelry design contest.
The theme of this year’s competition is “To Wonder.”
“We call on all creative and young talented jewelry designers to submit as many designs as possible inspired by the theme ‘To Wonder,’” said Jennie Baeten, a promoter of the contest which is now in its second edition.
“We are looking for the most creative, innovative designs. You can use any types of materials that you wish,” Jennie said.
“We hope to receive as many creative designs as possible.”
MIC is a uniquely global jewelry design contest.
Jewelry designers can enter the competition via the following link: www.mic-contest.com
Applications for jewelry designs are open until March 20, 2020.
The jury is scheduled to adjudicate applications on March 30, 2020.
An international panel of renowned judges, from leading designers to manufacturers, editors and influencers, will consider the finished pieces from shortlisted applicants, submitted by June 30, 2019.
The competition is open to everyone. There are no limits on nationality, education, occupation or age.
The winner of the competition will receive a cash prize of 7,000 Euros, the second prize is 5,000 Euros, and the third prize is 2,000 Euros.
The MIC design contest, which follows last year’s inaugural edition “Inspired by Nature”, is supported by Chinese businesses in the luxury sector.
The winners will be announced in September 2020.
For enquiries about the competition, please contact Jennie Baeten.
Email: jennie.baeten@outlook.com Mobile: +32 474 98 88 66
#MICcontest2020
The NAJ 2019 Awards Winners Announced
SOLIHULL, December 2019 - Attendees at the Benevolent Society Ball witnessed 11 front runners of the industry recognised as part of the NAJ’s Annual Awards ceremony on December 5, 2019, supported by sponsor Jewellery & Watch.
Now in its fifth year at the festive, fun-?lled and increasingly popular ball, the NAJ Awards attracted guests from across the UK and internationally, including Italy, Germany, Ireland and France, as companies, individuals and teams were recognised for their professionalism, honesty and integrity.
Left to right; NAJ Chair Harriet Kelsall, the four strong Purely Diamonds team collecting the Retailer of the Year Award sponsored by Hockley Mint, who are represented by MD Gary Wroe far right.
The glittering ceremony was hosted by NAJ Chief Executive, Simon Forrester and NAJ Chair, Harriet Kelsall who presented each winner with their awards, and paid tribute to the talent in the jewellery industry,
“This is one of my favourite events in the jewellery industry calendar. Of course, massive congratulations to the winners but also congratulations to those who were shortlisted. The talent in our industry is overwhelming and in order for the industry to thrive in the future we need to recognise, champion and celebrate excellence as much as we possibly can.
“At this event [the ball] it’s also important to recognise the generosity of the individuals who help to raise funds for the Benevolent Society, that can then be reinvested into people of the trade where it is really needed.”
At the ceremony Purely Diamonds scooped two awards with Retailer of the Year and Sales Manager Tracey Jones taking home Sales Person of the Year, while Hockley Mint picked up the award for Jewellery/Watch Supplier of the Year.
Retailer Drakes returned to Plymouth with the Physical Shop Front of the year award, while Sheffield’s PA Jewellery made the return leg to Yorkshire with the Team of the Year award. Bond Jewellery perhaps had the shortest trip of any victorious retailer back to Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter with their award for Website of the Year.
The hotly contested Workshop Professional of the Year was won by Alexander Wood who has recently completed his apprenticeship with Nathaniel Groves, while Designer of the Year was awarded to Julien Riad Sahyoun who continued his success from the UK Jewellery Awards earlier in the year.
Popular teacher, writer and dealer Kerry Gregory from Gemmology Rocks was awarded Service Provider of the Year, while Innovation of the Year went to MyriamSOS who cut her holiday short to make the event. And finally, Corporate Social Responsibility Initiative of the Year was won by Monica Vinader.
Attending the Awards for the first time, and as Headline Sponsor, David Sutton from diamond marketplace Nivoda said:
“We were honoured to have the opportunity to support the NAJ Awards this year.It was an excellent night that really celebrated those doing great things in our industry. We can’t wait to see what the next 12 months bring!”
The winners of the NAJ Awards 2019 are:
Headline Sponsor: Nivoda
Physical Shop Front of the Year – Drakes
Sponsored by: VM & Events Ltd
Innovation of the Year – MyriamSOS
Sponsored by: Clarity & Success
Corporate Social Responsibility Initiative of the Year – Monica Vinader
Sponsored by: Pursuit
Website of the Year – Bond Jewellery & Diamonds
Sponsored by: IJL
Jewellery and/or Watch Supplier of the Year – Hockley Mint
Sponsored by: Inhorgenta Munich
Service Provider of the Year – Gemmology Rocks
Sponsored by: Parify
Retailer of the Year – Purely Diamonds, Manchester
Sponsored by: Hockley Mint
Sales Person of the Year – Tracey Jones (Purely Diamonds)
Sponsored by: Windiam
Team of the Year – The PA Jewellery Team
Sponsored by: TH March
Designer of the Year – Julien Riad Sahyoun
Sponsored by: Clogau
Workshop Professional of the Year – Alexander Wood, apprentice to Nathanial Groves
Sponsored by: Presman Mastermelt
INHORGENTA AWARD 2020: The stage for innovation, creativity and design-highlights
The INHORGENTA AWARD is firmly established as a prestigious award in the jewelry and timepiece industry. The focus of the exclusive evening gala on February 16, 2020 will be on innovative design concepts and high-quality craftsmanship. The award ceremony is a season highlight, not only for the industry, but also for the prominent guests and a host of media representatives. The award is held as part of INHORGENTA MUNICH. From February 14 to 17, the Munich exhibition grounds are the international meeting place for jewelry, timepiece and gemstone experts.A rising number of submissions and the positive response have shaped the development of the award since it premiered in 2017. “The INHORGENTA AWARD is regarded as true recognition, and the award ceremony is the highlight of the trade fair’s supporting program,” says Klaus Dittrich, Chairman and CEO of Messe München.
Extended category for Public Choice Award
In addition to the established public voting category “Public Choice—Best Piece of Jewelry”, the “Public Choice Award — Best Watch” will be presented for the first time. The public will choose the winner via online voting on the basis of a description and photos. The other categories: Fine Jewelry, Fashion Jewelry, Watch Design, Designer of the Year and Design Newcomer of the Year, Next Generation Retail.
Experts assess designer masterpieces
A jury of experts and opinion leaders assess the submitted items of jewelry and timepieces. New to the jury are Claudia Hofmann, founder of the German Fashion Council and Jörn Kengelbach, editor-in-chief of the lifestyle magazine ROBB REPORT. Also making their debut are: Christoph Stelzer from the retail specialist Dfrost, Heide Rezepa-Zabel, “Bares für Rares” (a popular antiques show on German television) jewelry expert, and author Mira Wiesinger. Other members include Anja Heiden, member of the WEMPE Jewelry Management Board, and Christine Lüdeke, professor for design at Pforzheim University.
The designer of the INHORGENTA AWARD trophy Patrik Muff and watch expert Gisbert Brunner will also be on the jury once again. The German influencer and founder of his own jewelry label André Hamann is not only official Brand Ambassador for INHORGENTA MUNICH 2020, but also a member of the jury.
Stefanie Mändlein, Exhibition Director at INHORGENTA MUNICH, explains: “The INHORGENTA AWARD is also held in such high esteem, because our jury sets high standards. The trophy therefore represents a real professional accolade.”
Glamorous gala offers a stylish setting
The award ceremony will be held in the elegant setting of the BMW Welt. 450 guests, celebrities and a host of media representatives are expected at the event. INHORGENTA Brand Ambassador André Hamann eagerly awaits the evening: “I’m delighted to be on the INHORGENTA AWARD jury for the first time. Since I’m a jewelry designer myself, I very much appreciate ideas and concepts being honored in such a high-class setting.”
PureJewels scoops two gongs at Newham Chamber of Commerce awards
LONDON, November 2019 - East London jeweller PureJewels won gongs for e-commerce and innovation at the Newham Chamber of Commerce business awards this month.
PureJewels won the e-commerce award in recognition of the 20 percent monthly growth in visits to its e-commerce site, which has transformed the retailer into one of the most visible suppliers of eastern-inspired jewellery in the UK.
As the only company winning more than one award on the night, PureJewels also won the best innovation category for its launch of masterclasses for its customers, a series of weekend courses supporting the creative industries held at its premises on Green Street.
Green Street is a hub for dozens of independent South Asian retail jewellers and fashion outlets.
PureJewels’ Green Street store and e-commerce site supply cutting-edge 22-carat gold jewellery designs for British Asian weddings and a variety of innovative pieces, many of them gem-set.
“This is fantastic recognition for our company, and we’re really proud to have won these awards,” PureJewels CEO Jayant Raniga said after the event held at the Old Town Hall, Stratford, on November 6.
The judges visited shortlisted applicants, including PureJewels, before selecting the winners.
Exhibitions
Istanbul Jewelry Show postponed
ISTANBUL, March 11, 2020 – The Istanbul Jewelry Show, which was due to take place from March 19-22, has been postponed due to concerns over coronavirus, organisers said.“In light of the recent global developments around the COVID-19 virus, our top priority is the health and safety of everyone involved in the Istanbul Jewelry Show; our employees, partners, customers and exhibitors,” the Istanbul Jewelry Show team said.“After careful consultation with industry stakeholders, and upon the official decision of the Republic of Turkey Ministry of Trade on 11 March 2020 regarding the postponement of international organisations, the event will now take place on 18-21 June 2020.”
Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair to showcase Thai silver and craftsmanship
The Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, which will take place from February 25-29, 2020, will showcase Thai skills in making silver jewelry, from ancient times to the present day, and superlative Thai craftsmanship, Somdet Susomboon, Director General of the Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP), tells Jewellery Outlook Editor David Brough.
What will be the main features and highlights of the 65th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair?The Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair, also known as BGJF, continues to celebrate Thailand’s long recognised artisanal skills in line with our global marketing theme, “Thailand’s Magic Hands: the Spirit of Jewelry Making.”
The theme and the campaign emphasize the strong image of Thailand’s gem and jewelry industry, which demonstrates the advantages of Thailand being the country where artisans with the highest level of expertise in gems and jewellery gather.
Mr Somdet Susomboon, Director General of Thailand's Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP.)
New to the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair this year is the story of Thai Silver at the Niche Showcase exhibition. For many years, including 2018, Thailand has ranked as the number 1 silver jewellery exporter in the world.
It is well known to be the home and manufacturing capital of high quality silver jewellery products. The exhibition will include the history of silver products from ancient times, and will feature modern design elements and showcase expertise in silver jewelry.
There will be workshops demonstrating gem and jewelry making from Thai artisans to highlight the expertise of Thai craftspeople and enhance the image of the Fair. Visitors can also attend the jewelry making workshops.
Other key aspects include “The New Faces”; featuring jewellery products from 200 promising businesses from across the country. Equally important, one should visit our showcase entitled “The Jewellers”, highlighting a group of designers who focus on creative jewelry crafting.
The Fair will also hold a series of insightful seminars and interactive workshops to promote trade and technical cooperation in Thailand and worldwide. A range of topics is covered: from raw materials and jewellery trends, to innovative marketing techniques and approaches.
What is the significance of Thailand’s gem and jewelry craftsmanship in the global trade?In the past, Thailand was a source of raw materials, such as rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. Just as the name of our international airport, Suvarnabhumi means the land of gold, Thailand has a proud and rich culture of sculpting, engraving, weaving, and creating gold masterpieces, from crown jewels to sacred pagodas and royal dresses.
Thailand’s exceptional design, gemstone selection, settings, and polishing are a reflection of our long history and heritage in fine jewellery.Thai artisans are praised for their meticulous gemstone setting skills as our country’s jewelry and artistic creations brilliantly shine with the precision of high craftsmanship.For hundreds of years, the knowledge of the Western world’s finest jewelry making has been assimilated with Thai artisans’ skills, allowing for significant advances in the art of precious metal jewelry making.
Innovation from Thailand’s history such as the uniqueness of Thai contemporary artistry is the means to bridge the past and the future.
For this reason, Thailand has become one of the leading countries of value creation for the global gem and jewelry industry.And we are well established with a significant reputation for jewelry brands that are internationally recognised for having the highest skills and artistic design in the world.Why is the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair a ‘must-attend’ event for buyers from around the world?First and foremost, Thailand is a one stop destination for the gem and jewelry industries from mine to market that offers the full spectrum of gems, finished jewelry, design services, polishing, setting services, gem certifications, logistics, and related services.
Secondly, thanks to its strategic location and infrastructure for the industry, Thailand serves as the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) gem gateway to the world.
The Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair embraces the AEC partnership and welcomes exhibitors from neighbouring countries, especially Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam or CLMV.
The Thai government has adopted economic measures to address the volatile world economy, which include, but is not limited to the gem and jewellery industry. These measures include:
- Increasing exports to emerging markets such as the Middle East, the ASEAN region, India and China in addition to its existing markets namely Hong Kong, the U.S. as well as Europe, where the industry still sees demand growth by introducing campaigns to promote the image of Thailand’s gem and jewelry products.
- Exploring new opportunities from the trade dispute between major trading partners by attracting those buyers who have been affected by the ongoing political turmoil in some regions to seek suppliers in Thailand instead.
- Promoting small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in connection to domestic tourism through The New Faces Zone which will serve as a new marketing channel for local entrepreneurs, especially to business owners with potential to export, such as in provinces with significant raw materials like silver from Nan province in the North, gemstones from Chanthaburi province in the East, and black spinel from Tak province in the Northwest of Thailand.
Do you believe that Brexit can bring new trade opportunities in the gem and jewelry industries between Thailand and the UK?The Thai government has a plan to facilitate the opportunities of Brexit by promoting and expanding potential Thai products, including gems and jewelry in the UK market. The UK is still one of the potential markets for gems and jewelry from Thailand since the UK is Thailand’s fourth largest export destination among European markets with 2018’s export value of 207.7 million USD, increased by 6.64 percent from 2017. In 2019, despite global economic volatility, Thai exports to the UK remained very promising with 13.30% growth in the first 10 months. We believe that there are opportunities for the gems and jewellery trade to grow between the two nations.
What are the projections for total Thai gems and jewelry exports by value in 2019 versus 2018, in US dollars, and what are the key drivers of this trend?In 2018, the industry brought in approximately 12 billion USD (-6.56%), accounting for 4.74% of the country’s total export value. The export of gems and jewellery excluding raw gold was worth 7.6 billion USD, an increase of 7.08%. The Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) has set out the 2019 working export target for the industry at +1% (raw gold excluded) or about 7.7 billion USD. So far, thanks to rising gold prices, during the first 10 months of 2019, the export value of gems and jewelry products totalled 13.97 billion USD, an increase of 37.58%. Once excluded raw gold, the 2019 export is worth 6.9 billion USD, an increase of 6.22%. Thus, we are positive that the 2019 export of gems and jewelry will reach the target.
According to the statistics below, the upward export trend comes from rising prices of raw materials such as gold and precious metals as well as growing demand for gemstones and pearls in major export markets such as Hong Kong, India, the U.S., Switzerland, Italy, Japan etc. The continued growth in the gems and jewellery industry reflects confidence in the quality of Thai products and reputable craftsmanship of Thai manufacturers. I believe that 2019 as well as 2020 will be a fruitful year for Thai gems and jewelry exporters.
Key products export in detail (Jan-Oct 2019)Precious stones (overall exports of 2,619.67 million USD (an increase of 3.85%))
Diamonds US$ 1,305.16 million (-7.89%) Gemstones US$ 1,298.64 million (+18.95%) Pearls US$ 15.87 million (+14.87%)
Fine Jewellery (overall exports of 3,037.85 million USD (a decrease of -8.69%))Gold Jewellery US$ 1,619.47million (-1.65%) Silver Jewellery US$ 1,215.69 million (-21.71%)
Other Precious Metal Jewellery US$ 202.69 million (+58.81%)
Imitation Jewellery US$ 349.29 million (-0.10%) Synthetic Jewellery US$ 57.18 million (-14.97%)
Precious Metal and Metal Coated Items US$ 838.38 million (+261.93%)
Unwrought gold US$ 7,073.84 million (+93.24%)
What is the outlook for next year in key overseas markets for Thai exports of gems and jewelry, and what steps is DITP taking to drive growth in those countries? Major Export Markets of Thai Gems and Jewellery (excluding raw gold) in 2019No. Growth.
1. Hong Kong -3.83% 2. USA -7.58% 3. India +98.05% 4. Singapore +306.11 5. Germany -30.77% 6. Switzerland +52.84% 7. Belgium -5.25% 8. Italy +125.71% 9. United Arab Emirates +2.82% 10. UK +13.33%
- Potential Markets that show strong growth are Qatar (4.35%) South Korea (22.42%), the Netherlands (9.75%), Cambodia (135.97%), Spain (17.12%), and Vietnam (56.71%)- Major export markets of Thai Gems and Jewelry and products in demand: Hong Kong (gold, coloured stone), the U.S. (gold jewellery, silver jewellery, coloured stone), Germany (silver jewellery), India (polished precious stone, diamond), Belgium (polished diamond), China (polished precious stone) Russia (silver jewellery), etc.
Aligned with the Thai government’s policy, the Department of International Trade Promotion (DITP) has proactively adopted different marketing schemes to promote the gems and jewelry industry in various countries and regions.
Firstly, DITP sets out to maintain and expand existing markets, seek new markets and revive former markets. Particularly, in growing markets; DITP by our Thai Trade Centres (DITP’s overseas offices - TTC), for instance TTC Dubai and TTC Chennai, conducts business networking events together with related associations and trade partners to make sure Thai gems and jewelry remain high profile.In a similar manner, in well-established markets such as Hong Kong, the U.S. and Italy, DITP promotes the image of Thailand’s gems and jewelry industry, utilizing our marketing campaign “Thailand’s Magic Hands,” which highlights advanced skills of Thai craftspeople in creating intricate fine jewelry, to communicate directly to end consumers as well as people in the gems business.Within the ASEAN region, DITP focuses on high-end consumers or the “super-rich audience” in the CLMV (Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar and Vietnam) who can easily pop in to visit the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair in Bangkok.Last but not least, DITP has worked relentlessly to improve the Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair (BGJF) to ensure that BGJF remains one of the most comprehensive trade platforms that provides the industry with a one-stop solution, from upstream to downstream, from sourcing to the marketing, which ultimately helps propel Thailand towards becoming the world’s gems and jewelry manufacturing and trading hub.Sponsored
HOMI Fashion&Jewels sees buoyant first-time exhibitor bookings
More than half of the first-time exhibitors signed up for the February 15-18, 2020 edition of HOMI Fashion&Jewels are international brands, and the number of high-quality buyers is set to rise, attracted by the new features of the show, HOMI Exhibition Director Emanuele Guido tells Jewellery Outlook Editor David Brough.
Q. Why is the show a "must-attend" event for buyers?Emanuele Guido: HOMI Fashion&Jewels continues to set the benchmark for the world of fashion accessories, bijoux and trendy jewels thanks to a combination of original and high-quality ideas. The wide-ranging event covers the three segments of reference to take in everything from beachwear to components, from semi-precious to coloured stones, as well as many price levels and targets, always prioritising experimentation and hosting the finest, cutting-edge craftsmanship (at national and international level).Each edition of HOMI Fashion&Jewels, a twice-yearly appointment which, in 2020, falls from 15 to 18 February and from 19 to 22 September, aims to assume an increasingly precise identity, in order to offer a thorough and detailed overview of the emerging trends.
Q. What will be the new and special features of the February 2020 edition of HOMI Fashion&Jewels?Emanuele Guido: First, there is the decision to bring the event forward, to 15-18 February at Fieramilano (Rho), so that it coincides with other key Milan fashion events, namely MICAM (international footwear exhibition) and MIPEL (international leather exhibition) running just prior to Milan Fashion Week. A strategy that aims to solidify HOMI Fashion&Jewels as a unique opportunity for sharing among the global market’s fashion accessory, bijoux and trendy jewels segments, exploiting the significant number of overseas visitors in attendance during the specific period. A synergy that targets the global market, focused on creating a centre of reference for the accessories’ segment in the international fashion capital.Important changes have been made at an organisational level too. The exhibition will no longer be divided by product category but structured according to the latest distribution logic and the needs of visitors and their target of reference. The format will present four different visitor pathways - Style, Everyday, Gems & Components, and F&J International Delivery - which vary in terms of their product characteristics, positioning and distribution channels, in order to facilitate and streamline the visit for buyers and operators.
Emanuele Guido, HOMI Exhibition Director.
Q. How are bookings by exhibitors progressing so far for the February 2020 edition of HOMI Fashion&Jewels?
Emanuele Guido: Exhibitor numbers at HOMI Fashion&Jewels are positive and confirm just how the event is rapidly becoming a privileged shop window for the segment of reference thanks to its particular, inclusive format. The exhibition develops various activities that aim to respond to the specific needs of exhibitors. A key one is the scouting process, for the identification and selection of high-profile buyers and visitors coming from overseas markets and who are attentive to research, innovation and the latest concepts.Q. Do you expect some first-time exhibitors to participate? What is your projection for the trend in exhibitor and visitor numbers to the February 2020 show?Emanuele Guido: We have already received confirmation from numerous past exhibitors for the next edition, along with requests for participation from first-time exhibitors too. Around 100 of the 600 companies already signed up to participate are new and more than half of them are international brands. We also predict positive numbers in terms of buyers, attracted by the trade fair’s new features, which are designed to make the visitor pathway simpler, more efficient and complete.Q. What will be the highlights of the seminar program?Emanuele Guido: Once again, there will be a particular focus on training. A rich schedule of meetings, workshops and fashion shows is in development, with the aim of defining the current state of the art and identifying future trends, at a creative level and also in terms of new business opportunities. Four days of talks and training sessions, in collaboration with teachers and experts in the sector, dedicated to discovering new trends and the importance of image and marketing for the fashion world. The HOMI Fashion Show will offer visitors the chance to appreciate the most representative bijoux and fashion accessories, modelled live.The innovations offered by the next edition will include an inspirational space, the TREND Area, in which styles, atmospheres and market trends will be proposed within a seductive visual concept, offering visitors tips and suggestions when seeking new ideas and businesses opportunities at the event.http://www.homifashionjewels.com/en
VicenzaOro January 2020 to launch “VO VINTAGE”, an exclusive vintage watch and jewellery event
Vicenza, October 5, 2019 - Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) is launching VO VINTAGE at the January 2020 edition of VicenzaOro, dedicated to the collector’s segment with some of the most sought-after, unique and rare pieces of vintage timepieces and jewellery.During Vicenzaoro January 2020 (January 18-20), VO VINTAGE will be running alongside the original trade show format with a programme further enlivened by well-known experts on the international scene.
Visitors will be able to observe master watch-makers as they meet the big names in timepiece history, such as Sandro Fratini, who, with his legendary collection of 2,000 watches worth one billion euros, has been a leading collector for decades.The planning of VO VINTAGE contains all the expertise of Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) which, with its Jewellery Agenda, oversees Italy’s top events in the gold and jewellery sector, starting from the two editions of Vicenzaoro, an international reference point with thousands of traders from 120 different countries and a constantly growing number of attendees.VO VINTAGE will be attended by the contemporary sector’s leading institutions, such as Assorologi, which has been fighting on the intellectual property front for years against forgery and “fake” trade; the AHCI - Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, the association which gathers the greatest independent master watch-makers; and Orologi & Passioni, Italy’s most important enthusiasts’ forum.To ensure exhibitor and visitor privacy and security, VO VINTAGE will be staged in the foyer on the first floor of Vicenza Expo Centre in an exclusive and reserved context within VICENZAORO January 2020.With VO VINTAGE, IEG focuses on a growing segment to extend its customers’ business opportunities by integrating vintage watches and jewellery with the jewellery manufacturing chain represented by the Vicenzoro communities.
Blogs
BLACKBURN, England, March 18, 2020 - Ainsworth Jewellers, who are celebrating 150 years in the Lancashire minister and industrial town, are planning a new strategy to rebuild their brand.CMJ and NAJ member Ainsworth expects to reduce the range of jewellery and watch brands that it offers, shedding underperforming stock, and will reach out to a growing British Asian local market."We are discussing a possible collaboration with London retailer and supplier PureJewels, which has an established network of British Asian customers,” said director Phil Ainsworth."Our main focus this year as we celebrate our 150th anniversary will be to focus on developing our own brand.”The rebranding exercise could encompass bespoke bridal and engagement rings and new jewellery collections. 
Ainsworth this year marks its continuous presence in Blackburn since 1870 and will host a special networking event for CMJ members and suppliers in June to celebrate the anniversary.
The first floor of the shop on Darwen Street presents a museum-like showcase of jewellery and memorabilia spanning Ainsworth’s long history in the town.
Ainsworth is encouraging customers whose families bought items from the jeweller to come forward with their pieces so that they can be highlighted as part of an Instagram story campaign."We are eager to tell the story of Ainsworth Jewellers, begun by Joseph Ainsworth and carried on by subsequent generations to the present day,” Phil said.Phil works closely with his father Ken, who is now in his eighties. Ken expects to scale back his involvement in the day-to-day affairs of the jeweller, while Phil, aided by his fiancée Helen Dimmick, will devote more time to creating a strategy that will enable Ainsworth to become a destination jeweller. 
Ainsworth has sizable premises in the cathedral quarter of the town and expects to benefit from the redevelopment and gentrification of the area over the next few years.Brands that have outperformed recently in the jewellery store include Trollbeads and Henryka, Phil said.Gem-set jewellery is also selling well, and customer tastes have shifted to yellow gold, he added.The coronavirus pandemic remains a concern to Ainsworth because of its potential impact to erode footfall to the shop, and the risk of staff illness, Phil said. The window display, refreshed every few weeks, centred on Mother’s Day in March, and featured a large variety of stock, from diamond cuts by Royal Asscher to watches, such as Bering, Elliot Brown and Dreyfuss.The jeweller is stepping up its social media activities, notably on Instagram, in order to highlight new stock, triggering purchase enquiries.
SPOTLIGHT – Ainsworth Jewellers to rebuild brand
COMMENTARY-Bangkok fair opens, resilient visitor numbers, strong precautions against coronavirus risks
By David Brough
BANGKOK, February 25, 2020 - Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair opened its doors with strong measures in place to reduce coronavirus risks, and visitor numbers appeared resilient.The twice-yearly Bangkok fair, open to buyers from around the world, is a showcase for coloured gemstones and silver jewellery manufactured in Thailand, as well as diamonds, fashion jewellery and machinery.By mid-afternoon on the first day of the February 25-29 show, organisers spoke of 2,821 visitors, versus around 3,500 at the end of the first day of the September 2019 event.
Organisers stepped up precautions to combat coronavirus risks. Face masks and hand gel were widely available at the fair. Many visitors, exhibitors, show staff and police wore masks.
As of February 25, Thailand has reported 37 cases of coronavirus since the outbreak.The Bangkok fair opened despite the postponement of the March Hong Kong fair to May 2020 due to concerns over coronavirus.Thailand’s Department of Trade Promotion (DITP), organiser of the fair, has targeted a 1 percent year-on-year increase in the value of Thai gem and jewelry exports in 2020 (excluding unwrought gold) to 8.2 billion U.S. dollars.DITP Director-General Somdet Susomboon, in a news briefing, spoke of plans to develop new markets, notably in the Middle East and Central Europe, to compensate for lost sales linked to the coronavirus.Some exhibitors spoke of the impact of coronavirus fears on sales, but added that well-cut, high-quality and rare coloured gemstones continued to sell well.Dealers said some gemstones held back from the market last year were now being offered for sale, but prices were holding up.
THAILAND’S FRIEND AWARD 2020The show was inaugurated after a well-attended ceremony to celebrate Thailand’s Friend Award 2020, granted by the Commerce Ministry for support to the Thai gem and jewelry industry, the country’s third biggest export sector.The winners included Jewellery Outlook Editor David Brough, as well as leading importers from around the world. The February 2020 edition of the Bangkok fair included a Siam Silver Showcase, presenting extraordinary Thai silver jewelry designs, as well as a New Faces section for innovative talent.
The Jewellers exhibition featured 20 Thai designers displaying jewelry pieces using innovative materials, such as Tee who created jewelry using “forgotten materials,” including paper and rubber tubes.
REVIEW-Van Cleef & Arpels showcase extraordinary array of high jewellery in Milan
By David Brough
MILAN, February 21, 2020 - Paris maison Van Cleef & Arpels has presented a sumptuous variety of fine jewellery at a popular exhibition curated at the Palazzo Reale in central Milan.A visitor to the show came away both informed and entertained after seeing an array of pieces, from jewellery to clocks, including many designs from the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s, which are highly sought-after by collectors.The free exhibition features some of Van Cleef's celebrated "Zip" necklaces, which emanated from a suggestion by the Duchess of Windsor, a long-time customer of the Place Vendome jeweller.The inspiration of India permeated a 1971 emerald necklace, while a Spanish dancer clip, 1941, underscored the maison's long fascination with dancers and feminine poses.
Nature abounded at the exhibition, exemplified by a series of bird clips; and the three leaves clip, 1955, showing off mystery set rubies.
A proliferation of fairies, another frequent theme of Van Cleef design, reflected the power of the imagination.Visitors to the show, clicking pictures enthusiastically with their smartphones, gasped audibly at the artistry and extreme craftsmanship of the collection, which was backed up by a video focused on the painstaking skills utilised in creating Van Cleef pieces.The exhibition, curated by celebrated Italian academic and author Alba Cappellieri, ends on February 23.
COMMENTARY-Strong order flow seen at Milan show HOMI Fashion&Jewels
By David Brough
MILAN, February 18, 2020 - Visitor turnout was high as the February 2020 edition of HOMI Fashion&Jewels wrapped up, auguring for a strong flow of orders at one of Europe's leading fashion jewellery, fashion and accessories trade shows.The timing of the event (February 15-18, 2020), coinciding with other fashion sector trade fairs in Milan, helped to drive footfall into the show, which is organised by Fiera di Milano.The vibrant business at HOMI Fashion&Jewels underscored a growing trend for fashion retailers to sell jewellery and accessories in-store, as seen, for example, at H&M and Topshop.
"We want new international talents to come and exhibit at the show. We are doing our best to attract a talented array of fashion-driven exhibitors who will appeal to buyers," said Exhibition Director Emanuele Guido."The positioning of our show is to put on stage the type of product that helps retailers to flourish in the market."Visitor numbers were buoyant, and there was no sense at the Milan show that concerns over coronavirus had kept visitors away. The Italians are vigilant over coronavirus risks, conducting body temperature checks of those arriving at airports from abroad.HOMI Fashion&Jewels prides itself on identifying key trends in the fashion and fashion jewellery markets to keep visitors fully aware of what will sell in the seasons ahead.
The show was democratically laid out, with an array of fashion items and accessories interspersed among the state-of-the-art jewellery creations.A seminar at HOMI Fashion&Jewels revealed "New Romantic" (#soft #bloom #floralcolors) and "Underground" (#urban #cosmopolitan #neoncolors #genderless) as macro trends for 2020-22.An illustrated "Trends" exhibition section featured at the show. The OceanMany jewellery items seen at HOMI Fashion & Jewels were linked to the ocean. There was a strong showing of red Mediterranean coral and pearl jewellery with the summer holiday shopping season in mind.Over-size pieces were popular, as exemplified by the chunky, colourful necklaces offered by Intini Jewels.Amber and resin jewellery from Eastern Europe was prominent.
Unusual jewellery materials featured too, such as the leather necklaces designed by Athens-based Marina Panagiotoulia, as well as pieces made from glass, wood and recycled plastic.In the popular New Crafts section, innovation reigned, notably an extraordinary handcrafted Murano glass necklace by Italian designer Barbara Proverbio.Trends across this market segment are very difficult to identify, because what is "hot" in London is different from in Naples or Marseille, Guido said.But the wide choice of offerings from the exhibitors, was seen as catering to all tastes.
Valuer Membership Expands to Engage Wider Community
The Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV) has expanded its membership categories to encompass a larger valuing community through specific membership categories for Specialist Valuers, Student Valuers and Retired (non-valuing) members.These new categories sit alongside existing categories of membership (Fellow and Member) and have been brought in response to valuer demand.Barry Sullivan Chair of the NAJ’s Professional & Technical Standards and IRV (PTSI) Steering Group said,“We are aware that there are a significant number of professionals who carry out valuations, but do not currently meet our criteria for full MIRV (Member) or FIRV (Fellow) status but do want to achieve this level. These categories sit alongside our existing categories of membership and have been developed in response to valuer demand. There have been extensive discussions at PTSI and before it the IRV Committee, and I’m pleased to say that we have finally overcome some hurdles and can welcome into membership these important groups.”
Image: IRV Members and Fellows will be issued with an ID card for 2020, in order to demonstrate their professional credentials. NAJ Chief Executive Simon Forrester said of the new categories,“Professional Institutions need to have a way of bringing in and engaging the practitioners of tomorrow, and keeping those with lots of knowledge close to the sector, hence the introduction of the Student and Retired categories. With one eye on ensuring our sector remains fit for the future, we are committed to creating a structure suitable for Chartered status, and are actively pursuing this with a third party."Valuers’ standards within the IRV are the benchmark for the UK jewellery industry and are comparable with other professions, as MIRV’s (Members) and FIRV’s (Fellows) are subject to ongoing monitoring to assure quality and accuracy of their valuations, alongside Continuing Professional Development, and minimum educational qualification standards.""In a recent survey of 2,500 members of the public regarding the importance of a professional valuation; 63% said it was important to them. We hope the valuer community can see that, as the professional body for jewellery valuers, the IRV has a bright future ahead of us - with standards and professionalism at the very heart of it.”Students and Retired Members will in effect be Associates so will not appear on the Find a Valuer directory due being subject to lesser criteria, while Specialists will be expected to reach the same standard as Fellows or Members but will appear on the Find a Valuer directory. Specialist Valuers is a practicing category, and recruitment to this group will involve an interview process to assess suitability.This development comes alongside the introduction of ID cards and new certification for valuers registered with the Institute, a move Forrester says is “designed to demonstrate IRV professionalism and standards and assure credentials to those both within the trade and outside of it".For more details on joining any of these categories, interested parties can contact Sandra Page, IRV Coordinator by emailing Sandra.page@naj.co.uk.About the IRVThe Institute of Registered Valuers is the only professionally recognised valuation body in the UK, acknowledged by insurers and wider trade as the pinnacle of professional valuation services. A part of the National Association of Jewellers, its members benefit from free access to the entire 2,000+ NAJ membership, daily referrals, business benefits and services, and recognition from insurers and retail customers alike. IRV Members will be able to interact with retailers at the forthcoming NAJ Summit, designed to bring together the whole of the UK jewellery sector.
Auctions
Anna Hu sets auction world record as contemporary Chinese jewellery artist
October 14, 2019 - Anna Hu broke the world auction record as a contemporary Chinese jewellery artist at Sotheby's “Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite” auction in Hong Kong on October 7.The “Dunhuang Pipa Necklace” fetched US$5.78 million (HK$45.34 million), the highest price for a contemporary Chinese jewellery creation at auction.With the current unstable global financial climate and the turbulent political and economic situation in Hong Kong, the result that Anna Hu delivered with her Silk Road Music Collection at Sotheby's Hong Kong autumn Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite sale proved that her beautiful art jewels are still gems that art connoisseurs seek.The “Dunhuang Pipa Necklace”, commissioned by Sotheby’s, was created by Anna Hu with a 100.02-carat fancy intense yellow diamond.The cultural references from East and West, and the ingenious transformable design in this creation, made this necklace a highlight of the sale.
ANNA HU Blue Magpie Brooch
ANNA HU Ellington Earrings
Anna Hu sets auction world record as contemporary Chinese jewellery artist
London jewellery auctions season highlights value of craftsmanship
By David Brough
David Brough, IJL Precious Metals and Gems Editor, contributed this article to International Jewellery London:
Sales results of the London fine jewellery auctions in June highlighted a growing appreciation for craftsmanship, which is also increasingly reflected in the wider retail market.
Pieces made with exceptional artisanal skills, combined with beauty and rarity, achieved outstanding prices at the Sotheby’s Fine Jewels sale on June 5 and the Christie’s Important Jewels auction on June 12.
Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2019.High craftsmanship was a common denominator among items that flourished in the sales, such as a rare late 18th/early 19th century diamond tiara, which achieved a hammer price at Christie’s of 130,000 pounds, several times its pre-sale estimate of 25,000-35,000 pounds. The provenance of this piece, which had belonged to a “lady of title”, helped to boost its sales result.
“The older pieces can do extremely well, especially if they are fresh to the market, and there is a great appreciation for the craftsmanship,” said Keith Penton, head of Christie’s London jewellery department.Among global design trends coming through in the jewellery retail sector, the premium of handcrafting skills is soaring, as they become increasingly scarce, with many young people turning to alternative, digitally driven professions in a fast-changing world. “Extreme craftsmanship” will be more revered amidst a growing appreciation of “personalised jewellery” as buyers celebrate exceptional artisanal pieces.
During a challenging period for the global jewellery market, the retail segments encompassing “bespoke”, or custom made, craftsmanship have never had it so good. Retailers offering bespoke services may have an on-site workshop, or atelier, where artisans re-model jewellery items in line with customers’ wishes, perhaps contemporizing an inherited piece, or “reinventing” an engagement ring after a divorce.
Craftsmanship will be increasingly valued by jewellery buyers, regardless of their age and income, as they take time off from their smart phones and hectic lifestyles to appreciate intricate workmanship.At a trade fair in Geneva in May, the designer showcase was dominated by creations manifesting superb artisanal skills, such as London-based designers Ming Lampson and Alexandra Jefford. Connoisseur collectors and top-end buyers were constantly on the lookout for cutting-edge designs bolstered by remarkable handcrafting skills.
Signed pieces — that is those by upscale retail houses, such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels — which revealed outstanding craftsmanship and beauty, outperformed in the London auctions. At the Sotheby’s sale, a 1920s diamond bracelet by Cartier, in classic Art Deco black and white, sold for a hammer price of 140,000 pounds, double its 50,000 to 70,000 pounds pre-sale estimate. Its articulated openwork panel was millegrain-set with circular-cut diamonds, to a black cord bracelet, and was further enhanced with single-cut diamond rondelles, signed Cartier, numbered, with French assay marks and partial maker’s marks.
Provenance also boosted the appeal of this piece, as it was formerly in the collection of Annie, 1st Viscountess Cowdray. “The craftsmanship of this piece, the fact that it had belonged to the 1st Viscountess Cowdray, and the continuing fascination for Art Deco, contributed to this excellent result,” said Kristian Spofforth, head of department at Sotheby’s London.
Image Courtesy of Sotheby’s London. FORMERLY IN THE COLLECTION OF ANNIE, 1ST VISCOUNTESS COWDRAY
Diamond bracelet, Cartier, 1920s
London jewellery auctions season highlights value of craftsmanship
Business Affairs
The Plumb Club Becomes first trade group to require members to join Responsible Jewellery Council
NEW YORK, September 2019 - The Plumb Club announced that its members overwhelmingly voted to require all new and existing Plumb Club members to become Certified Members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC).
The Plumb Club, a current RJC association member, is the first organization of its kind to require its members to follow the RJC Code of Practices.
The new requirement underscores The Plumb Club’s purpose to “connect its members and their customers and help shape the future of the jewellery industry.”
The RJC will collaborate with current and future Plumb Club members to ensure they adopt the RJC Code of Practices and effectively communicate their RJC membership status to their customers and business partners.
(L) Left to Right: David A. Bouffard Responsible Jewellery Council, JC Chairman, Brandee Dallow, Responsible Jewellery Council North American Lead, Michael Lerche, The Plumb Club President, Lawrence Hess, Executive Vice President
(R) Left to Right: Michael Lerche, The Plumb Club President; David A. Bouffard Responsible Jewellery Council, JC Chairman
“Our new By-Law confirms The Plumb Club’s vision of being a responsible supply side organization recognized for leadership, adding value, and positively impacting the jewelry industry,” said Michael Lerche, Plumb Club President. “We strongly believe that any jewelry retailer who buys product from a non-RJC member is taking a very serious and unnecessary risk. Buying product from a Plumb Club member will greatly mitigate that risk.”
“The Plumb Club’s actions set a clear leadership example for other trade associations and member organizations within the jewelry industry. The Plumb Club’s model of cascading RJC membership through its members is a model for other associations to confidently follow,” explained David Bouffard, Chair of the Responsible Jewellery Council.
“At the RJC, we believe that building consumer confidence is not only important for the future of our industry, but is also an imperative that can be acted on today by joining the RJC.”
Both Lerche and Bouffard called for all current and perspective RJC association members to cascade RJC membership throughout their organizations.
“Having a standardized universal code of practices throughout our industry that the retailer, consumer and even our government, can rely upon to guarantee that these products are the most responsibly sourced and ethically produced in the marketplace is critical. Today, we call on the entire jewelry industry to support the Responsible Jewellery Council and work with us in finding a way for every supplier and retailer in our industry to become a member,” said Lerche.
“As Chair of the RJC, I ask other trade associations within our industry to follow the leadership of The Plumb Club: require your members to join the RJC,” said Bouffard.
“The RJC has a team ready and willing to help your organization develop its own model of cascading RJC membership.”
All certified members of the RJC are able to point their customers and business partners to the RJC’s publicly available Code of Practices to validate how the products they buy and sell are responsibly sourced.
The RJC verifies its Code of Practices through full membership of the ISEAL Alliance. RJC members must become certified against the Code of Practices through a third party, independent, certification process.
The RJC Code is aligned with international standards from the Organisation of Economic Co-Operation and Development and the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.
The Plumb Club Becomes first trade group to require members to join Responsible Jewellery Council
Van Cleef & Arpels’ rubies and Kashmir sapphires to headline Bonhams London Jewels Sale
LONDON, September 22, 2019 - A triumvirate of coloured gemstones will lead Bonhams London Jewels sale on September 24 with Van Cleef & Arpels’ rubies, Kashmir sapphires and Colombian emeralds all going under the hammer.
Gracing the catalogue’s front cover is a superior collection of “Mystery-Set” jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels. The mystery setting is their most famous invention, encapsulating Van Cleef & Arpels’ pioneering spirit for innovation and exceptional craftsmanship.The collection, purchased circa 1990, perfectly illustrates Van Cleef & Arpels’ dedication to quality and craftsmanship and includes:
• A ‘Mystery-Set’ Ruby and Diamond Bracelet containing 177 perfectly matched individual rubies, each meticulously cut and set in seamless channels, creating a bright mosaic of colour, unbroken by any trace of yellow gold. It has a pre-sale estimate of £100,000-150,000 ($120,000-180,000).• A Ruby and Diamond ‘Bellegarde’ Necklace estimated at £40,000-60,000 ($49,000-73,000).
• A ‘Mystery-Set’ Ruby and Diamond Bombé Ring, estimated at £20,000-30,000 ($24,000-36,000)
• A Pair of Mystery-Set’ Ruby and Diamond ‘Lampion’ Earrings, estimated at £30,000-40,000 ($36,000-49,000).
• A ‘Mystery-Set’ Ruby and Diamond ‘Noeud Ruban’ Brooch, estimated at £25,000-35,000 ($30,000-43,000).
Emily Barber, Director of Jewellery at Bonhams UK, said: “This remarkable private collection embodies Van Cleef & Arpels’ commitment to creating jewels at the pinnacle of jewellery design.”Among standout lots is a Sapphire and Diamond Three-Stone Ring, featuring an oval-cut sapphire, weighing 5.16 carats, set between brilliant-cut diamonds. It is estimated at £80,000-120,000 ($97,000-150,000) and accompanied by three reports confirming its Kashmir origin and no evidence of heat treatment.
A Sapphire and Diamond Three-Stone Ring, dated circa 1900, boasts a cushion-shaped sapphire, weighing 4.46 carats, set between cushion-shaped diamonds, with smaller old brilliant-cut diamond highlights. It has a pre-sale estimate of £100,000-150,000 ($120,000-180,000) and is accompanied by four reports stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.Emily Barber, Director of Jewellery at Bonhams UK, said: “Sapphires hailing from Kashmir continue to be sought after by collectors and gem lovers globally given their colour, history and the limited supply of the finest examples.“Kashmir sapphires of a sizeable carat weight are very rare to find so we are particularly delighted to offer these two impressive stones for sale."Emeralds are represented by two notable pieces in the sale: the first, an Emerald and Diamond Bracelet by Graff, set with a row of step-cut Colombian emeralds and diamonds, is of superb quality and is estimated at £100,000-150,000 (US$120,000-180,000).The second, An Art Deco Emerald, Diamond and Enamel Brooch by Hennell, the distinguished British jeweller, is dated circa 1925 and contains an engraved emerald, dated 1813-14, which is thought to have been presented by the Mughal Emperor Akbar II (Reg. 1806-1837) to Lady Mary Hood.
Lady Hood was the heiress of Francis Humberston Mackenzie, chief of clan Mackenzie and last Baron Seaforth (1754-1815). The chieftaincy devolved to her after the death of her father and she was also the inspiration for the character, Ellen Douglas, in Sir Walter Scott’s poem ‘The Lady of the Lake’. In the early 1800s, Lady Hood travelled extensively and charmed the upper echelons of Anglo-Indian society. It is during these years that she acquired the emerald, believed to have been presented to her by the Mughal Emperor Akbar II. The rulers of Mughal India often ordered their names and titles to be inscribed on gems; engraved seals were widely used and gifted amongst foreigners and noblemen in India.
The Mughal octagonal-cut Colombian emerald, dated 1813-14, is set within an openwork frame of black enamel, brilliant and single-cut diamonds with calibré-cut emerald highlights at each corner, and is mounted in platinum. It has a pre-sale estimate of £40,000-60,000 (US$49,000-73,000).
Emily Barber said: “This is a glorious jewel and with an evocative and impeccable provenance. It has been passed down the female line of the family since Mary Hood’s death and is the first time it has been offered for sale on the open market.
“It is thought that the emerald was mounted as a brooch by Hennell, around 1925, by a granddaughter of Lady Ashburton. The resulting Art Deco jewel perfectly encapsulates the early 20th century vogue for Indian-inspired jewellery that resonated particularly in England due to Britain’s colonial interests. The brooch is also a fitting tribute to the extraordinary life of Mary Hood and we are privileged to offer this for sale.”
Rare Buccellati Jewels from the Private Collection of the Buccellati Family at Bonhams
Twenty pieces from the private collection of the Buccellati family are set to be offered at Bonhams this September. The lots, all designed by the great Mario Buccellati, the “Prince of Goldsmiths” himself, date from 1919 to the 1960s, and span Buccellati’s meteoric rise from a small firm operating in Milan to one of the world’s most recognised jewellery houses, with an enviable list of international clients including royalty, aristocracy, industrialists and actors.
Emily Barber commented: “These lots are spectacular early prototypes of what went on to epitomise the Buccellati style. They act as a visual history of Buccellati’s production and demonstrate the company’s vast range of refined, intricate and tactile goldwork techniques, used to simulate sumptuous fabrics in precious metals and still very much the cornerstone of Buccellati design.”
Highlights include:
• A Gold, Silver and Emerald Bracelet attributed to Mario Buccellati, dated 1919, estimated at ? £2,000-3,000 (US$2,400-3,600). The leather case in this lot is one of Buccellati’s first cases and this bracelet one of Mario Buccellati’s earliest designs.
• A Diamond Bracelet by Mario Buccellati, circa 1925, estimated at £10,000-15,000 (US$12,000-18,000).
• A Varicoloured Gold and Multi Gem-Set Bangle by Mario Buccellati, circa 1930-1940, estimated at ?£8,000-12,000 (US$9,700-15,000). The bangle, set with cushion-shaped and circular-cut amethyst and varicoloured tourmalines, features three of the elaborate engraving Buccellati is perhaps best known for: ‘modellato’, ‘rigato’ and ‘ornato’.
Signed jewellery from the 1900s to the swinging Sixties and Seventies feature in the sale Bonhams is widely known as the go to auction house for signed jewellery, and especially for pieces by Andrew Grima, the Anglo-Italian jeweller who pioneered methods of melting and transforming gold into abstract forms, embracing both shape and texture, before setting the jewels with precious and semi-precious stones. Highlights include:
• A Diamond Lichen Brooch by Grima, circa 1975, estimated at £2,000-3,000 (US$2,400-3,600). Andrew Grima made a similar lichen brooch and earring suite for H.R.H The Princess Margaret in 1967. The pieces were cast from lichen that Princess Margaret had picked up on a walk in Scotland and sent to Grima.
• A Fire Opal, Emerald and Diamond Brooch by Grima, dated 1968, estimated at £6,000-8,000 (US$7,300-9,700). The stylised starburst design features a cabochon fire opal within a surround of similarly-cut emeralds. Its border is formed of textured gold rays and scattered with brilliant-cut diamond ‘flashes’.
• An Amethyst and Diamond Pendant by Grima, circa 1970. ?The hexagonal amethyst ‘slice’ sits within a textured gold border, highlighted with brilliant-cut diamonds, and has a pre-sale estimate of £7,000-10,000 (US$8,500-12,000).
Another notable lot which will feature in the sale is A Gold and Enamel Pendant by Lalique, circa 1900, estimated at £40,000-60,000 (US$49,000-73,000). René Lalique was the undisputed master of Art Nouveau jewellery design and this piece is an exceptional example of his work, featuring a scrolling plaque depicting the profile of a maiden, decorated with blue iridescent enamel, within a frame of undulating gold and blue enamel cornflower motifs, highlighted by three fancy-shaped blue glass cabochons.
India and UK delegates meet at IJL to explore jewellery trade opportunities
By David Brough
Delegates from the Indian and UK trade met at IJL (International Jewellery London) on the opening day of the show to explore new gems and jewellery trade opportunities between the two countries.
Rohit Vadhwana, First Secretary (Economic) of the Indian High Commission, invited Simon Forrester, CEO of the NAJ, to attend the next edition of the IIJS Signature trade fair in Mumbai in 2020.The meeting at IJL, which included Andrew Morton, managing director of Weston Beamor, the Creative Jewellery Group, a leading Birmingham-based jewellery manufacturer, discussed avenues to boost bilateral trade in gems and jewelry between India and the UK.Potential opportunities could encompass branded British platinum jewellery exports to India, delegates said.
Forrester later told the packed audience at a seminar about the British Asian jewellery consumer, that he welcomed initiatives to deepen gems and jewellery trade between Britain and India with a likely Brexit just weeks away.
Vadhwana said collaborations between British jewellery designers and Indian manufacturers could enhance trading opportunities for both countries.Morton said: "I embrace the opportunities that will arise to increase trade."The British Asian jewellery community is currently discussing establishing a forum, which could help channel new British Asian members to the NAJ.IJL (International Jewellery London) runs at London's Olympia until September 3.Latest Collections
Andre Michael introduces GIA-certified half-carat engagement rings for CMJ Trade Event
LONDON, February 2020 - Hatton Garden-based diamond jewellery supplier Andre Michael is introducing an extensive range of GIA-certified 0.50-carat solitaire engagement rings in time for the CMJ Trade Event.“This is an affordable range, designed in the UK for the UK market, both classical and cutting-edge designs, and beautifully made, with the quality assurance and prestige of GIA certification,” Andre Michael said.
“It’s an opportunity for retailers to offer quality engagement rings at an excellent price, as by focusing on the 0.50-carat segment, we can get our costs down in a highly competitive market. We have paid particular attention to getting the product right.”The rings, created in the UK, are available with rapid delivery times, in brilliant-cut diamonds in 18-carat gold and in platinum in two qualities: G colour with VS clarity, and H colour with SI clarity.The rings, which can be engraved, can be viewed on the Andre Michael website.“Retailers are welcome to visit us at the CMJ Trade Event on February 16-17 to look at the collection,” Andre Michael said.The rings can be offered by retailers to their customers as silver sample “proposal rings”: a customer can propose with the sample ring and then return to the retailer to make the order.
“Retailers are also invited to phone our office so that we can arrange an appointment for a viewing of the collection,” Andre Michael said.Andre Michael jewellery is manufactured using state-of-the-art technology, which facilitates low costs and benefits from the support of highly efficient German systems.For press enquiries, Email: info@andre-michael.com; Tel. 0207 430 1122.
Andre Michael introduces GIA-certified half-carat engagement rings for CMJ Trade Event
Selected jewels from collection of novelist Barbara Taylor Bradford to be sold at Bonhams
By David BroughLONDON, December 1, 2019 – Selected jewels from the collection of novelist Barbara Taylor Bradford, including pieces by Verdura, Schlumberger and David Morris, will be offered as part of the Bonhams London Jewels sale on December 4.
Barbara Taylor Bradford, celebrating 40 years since the publication of “A Woman of Substance”, told Bonhams annual jewellery lunch on November 29 that her husband, the late movie producer Robert Bradford, had gifted the jewels to her during their 55-year marriage.
A limited-edition enamel and multi gem set cuff, by Verdura, 2009
“It was Bob who bought the jewellery. Basically he couldn’t walk past a jewellery shop without going in and buying me something,” she said at the lunch.
Highlights include a limited-edition enamel and multi gem-set cuff, by Verdura, 2009 (est. 20,000-30,000 GBP); a diamond-set watch by David Morris (est. 30,000-50,000 GBP), and a fancy coloured diamond and diamond ring (est. 35,000-45,000 GBP.)
Novelist Barbara Taylor Bradford was guest of honour at Bonhams annual jewellery lunch
Andre Michael introduces entry-level Piccolo engagement ring collection for Christmas
LONDON, November 2019 - Hatton Garden-based diamond jewellery supplier Andre Michael is introducing the entry-level Piccolo diamond engagement ring collection for Christmas.
“This is an affordable range, with diamond engagement rings featuring a smaller central stone priced at 300-400 pounds for retailers,” Andre Michael said.
“It’s an opportunity for retailers to offer engagement rings at below 1,000 pounds. We are moving away from clusters and putting single stones into rings. Piccolo rings are beautifully made and very delicate, designed in the UK.”
The Christmas retail season is a popular period for couples gifting engagement rings.
The Andre Michael Piccolo collection features certified diamonds of 30-40 points in G-H colour, set in a choice of precious metals, including 9- and 18-carat gold, platinum and palladium.
“Retailers are invited to phone our office so that we can arrange an appointment for a viewing of the Piccolo collection,” Andre Michael said.
Andre Michael jewellery is manufactured using state-of-the-art technology, which facilitates low costs and benefits from the support of highly efficient German systems.
For press enquiries, Email: info@andre-michael.com; Tel. 0207 430 1122.
Andre Michael launches platinum one-carat solitaire rings for Christmas
LONDON, October 15, 2019 - Hatton Garden-based diamond jewellery supplier Andre Michael is launching a new range of platinum one-carat solitaire rings for Christmas.
The Christmas retail season is a popular period for couples gifting engagement rings.
The Andre Michael four-claw range, in a variety of platinum mounts, features certified colourless and near colourless diamonds in the E, F and G range, as well as SI (Slightly Included.)
“These are attractive, classical bright sparkly solitaire rings that are extremely well made, offered at highly competitive price points,” Andre Michael said.
“Retailers are invited to phone our office so that we can arrange an appointment for a viewing of the new range of rings.”
Andre Michael jewellery is manufactured using state-of-the-art technology, which facilitates low costs and benefits from the support of highly efficient German systems.
Contact for press enquiries: Email: info@andre-michael.com; Tel. 0207 430 1122.
VicenzaOro January 2020 to launch “VO VINTAGE”, an exclusive vintage watch and jewellery event
Vicenza, October 5, 2019 - Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) is launching VO VINTAGE at the January 2020 edition of VicenzaOro, dedicated to the collector’s segment with some of the most sought-after, unique and rare pieces of vintage timepieces and jewellery.During Vicenzaoro January 2020 (January 18-20), VO VINTAGE will be running alongside the original trade show format with a programme further enlivened by well-known experts on the international scene.Visitors will be able to observe master watch-makers as they meet the big names in timepiece history, such as Sandro Fratini, who, with his legendary collection of 2,000 watches worth one billion euros, has been a leading collector for decades.The planning of VO VINTAGE contains all the expertise of Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) which, with its Jewellery Agenda, oversees Italy’s top events in the gold and jewellery sector, starting from the two editions of Vicenzaoro, an international reference point with thousands of traders from 120 different countries and a constantly growing number of attendees.VO VINTAGE will be attended by the contemporary sector’s leading institutions, such as Assorologi, which has been fighting on the intellectual property front for years against forgery and “fake” trade; the AHCI - Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, the association which gathers the greatest independent master watch-makers; and Orologi & Passioni, Italy’s most important enthusiasts’ forum.To ensure exhibitor and visitor privacy and security, VO VINTAGE will be staged in the foyer on the first floor of Vicenza Expo Centre in an exclusive and reserved context within VICENZAORO January 2020.With VO VINTAGE, IEG focuses on a growing segment to extend its customers’ business opportunities by integrating vintage watches and jewellery with the jewellery manufacturing chain represented by the Vicenzoro communities.Andre Michael to launch hand-engraved bridal rings at CMJ Trade Event
LONDON, July 2019 - Hatton Garden-based diamond jewellery supplier Andre Michael is launching a new hand-engraved premium wedding and engagement ring collection at the CMJ Trade Event in August.
The rings from the “Orange Blossom” collection, which will be hand engraved on their sides, will feature a centre stone diamond, in a choice of cuts, including round, princess, emerald, oval and marquis, surrounded by pave.
“A highly skilled craftsperson does all of the ornate hand engraving of the ‘Orange Blossom’ rings,” Andre Michael said.
“The rings are also milgrained at the border, giving a premium feel.”
“The Orange Blossom collection is an exceptional product that we will showcase to the independent retailers visiting the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) Trade Event in Birmingham on August 4-5,” Andre Michael said.
The “Orange Blossom” rings will be available in 9- and 18-carat gold, platinum and palladium.
Andre Michael jewellery is manufactured using state-of-the-art technology, which facilitates low and extremely competitive costs, and benefits from the support of highly efficient German systems.
Contact for press enquiries: Email: info@andre-michael.com; Tel. 0207 430 1122. David Brough, mobile 07990568064.
Designers
DESIGNER PROFILE – Caterina Murino: Bond girl who became jewellery designer supporting Sardinian artisanal skills
By David BroughPARIS, October 2019 - Sardinian actress Caterina Murino, well-known to international movie-goers as a Bond girl, is now making a name for herself as a designer of sustainable fine filigree jewellery handmade in her island homeland.
Caterina, who appeared in the 2006 movie Casino Royale opposite Daniel Craig, has long been passionate about jewellery and gemstones and was the ambassador a few years ago at the CARAT+ diamond trade fair in Antwerp.
More recently, while continuing a busy acting and modelling career centred in France and Italy, she has built up a flourishing business designing fine filigree jewellery using Sardinian artisanal skills and selling directly to collectors.
Corallorubrum necklace by Caterina Murino, featuring Sardinian filigree chain
Her flair for designs has attracted positive comments from leading jewellery influencers, such as Instagram star @champagnegem who publicly called her intricate corallorubrum necklace, with a Sardinian filigree chain, gorgeous and amazing.
Some of Caterina’s other recent popular pieces include her Dancing Star Ring, featuring star sapphires from Sri Lanka, diamonds and 18-carat gold.
Caterina is passionate about designing jewellery and is looking to boost her profile as a designer while creating more one-off pieces that promote her design flair combined with Sardinian artisanal skills.
She strongly believes in sustainable jewellery production, and is a strong advocate of traceability and responsible sourcing.
Caterina Murino at the Ritz Paris, October 2019
DESIGNER PROFILE - Vanessa Pederzani boosts profile after IJL
By David BroughLONDON?, October 2019 - Italian designer Vanessa Pederzani has raised her profile since International Jewellery London ( IJL), where she showed off her latest creations as a Kickstarter, by introducing new jewels from her Dark Kingdom and White Queen collections.Vanessa, who comes from a family of jewellers, trained in jewellery making in Milan and has been selling pieces from her collections to private clients around the world since her move to London several years ago.The new jewels from her Dark Kingdom collection, inspired by bats, are timely in the run-up to Halloween."The bat symbolises health and luck in Asian culture," she says, wearing a bat-inspired ring from her own collection."Bats are a symbol to remind people they have something positive."Vanessa's White Queen collection is inspired by snowflakes and includes precious earrings shaped like antlers, which are seen as positive symbols of power and luck, she says.She strongly believes in the empowerment of women and likes to express the unique nature and beauty of women in her jewellery.She plans a trunk show in central London next month, aimed at expanding her private clientele, and hopes one day to be stocked by department stores.Vanessa enjoys working on new collections and expanding existing ones, like her "Beautiful Warrior" rings inspired by armour.Her pieces are made in Italy and Greece.Vanessa is looking to increase bespoke commissions for her work and recently returned from the Hong Kong September show where she sourced gemstones in readiness for fresh custom orders.
DESIGNER PROFILE - Alexandra Jefford embodies abstract artwork in her jewellery
By David BroughLONDON, October 2019 - “The combination of jewellery design and art works well for me,” Alexandra Jefford says in an interview in her studio, surrounded by sketches, art and jewellery books.She challenges the limits of her jewellery design talent, creating pieces often born out of a fragment of an idea or drawing, recycled and reworked using an overlay of techniques such as pastel upon gouache.Alexandra was initially inspired by the Bauhaus movement and the post-war American 1950s abstract expressionist painters.
Alexandra Jefford
Alexandra Jefford
Alexandra Jefford
NAJ CONFERENCE - Fei Liu describes his journey as a jewellery designer
By David Brough
LOUGHBOROUGH, England, September 16, 2019 – Fei Liu, in an address to the NAJ conference, spoke about his career as a jewellery designer, and underlined the importance of giving top-notch customer service to clients in order to trigger repeat orders.
“To grow trust is not simply via one purchase,” he said in a presentation to delegates on the final day of the three-day NAJ conference.“A good design not only makes the customer happy, but can also contribute to furthering the business,” he added.“Customers’ satisfaction with the designer leads them to keep coming back.”The award-winning Birmingham-based designer exports high-value precious jewellery to markets including China and the United States, and is widely stocked in the UK.In another keynote address, NAJ Chair Harriet Kelsall, who has built up a successful bespoke retail jewellery enterprise, gave helpful tips to delegates about how to improve networking and develop their businesses.A question-and-answer session featuring a panel of registered valuers, responded to concerns about appropriate markups for loose diamonds, and a series of workshops took place to boost members’ education, including a class about coloured gemstones given by respected gemmologist Kerry Gregory.
NAJ Chair Harriet Kelsall gave tips to jewellers to develop their businesses
Fei Liu addresses NAJ conference
Press Releases
BLACKBURN, England, March 18, 2020 - Ainsworth Jewellers, who are celebrating 150 years in the Lancashire minister and industrial town, are planning a new strategy to rebuild their brand.CMJ and NAJ member Ainsworth expects to reduce the range of jewellery and watch brands that it offers, shedding underperforming stock, and will reach out to a growing British Asian local market."We are discussing a possible collaboration with London retailer and supplier PureJewels, which has an established network of British Asian customers,” said director Phil Ainsworth."Our main focus this year as we celebrate our 150th anniversary will be to focus on developing our own brand.”The rebranding exercise could encompass bespoke bridal and engagement rings and new jewellery collections.
Ainsworth this year marks its continuous presence in Blackburn since 1870 and will host a special networking event for CMJ members and suppliers in June to celebrate the anniversary.
The first floor of the shop on Darwen Street presents a museum-like showcase of jewellery and memorabilia spanning Ainsworth’s long history in the town. Ainsworth is encouraging customers whose families bought items from the jeweller to come forward with their pieces so that they can be highlighted as part of an Instagram story campaign."We are eager to tell the story of Ainsworth Jewellers, begun by Joseph Ainsworth and carried on by subsequent generations to the present day,” Phil said.Phil works closely with his father Ken, who is now in his eighties. Ken expects to scale back his involvement in the day-to-day affairs of the jeweller, while Phil, aided by his fiancée Helen Dimmick, will devote more time to creating a strategy that will enable Ainsworth to become a destination jeweller. Ainsworth has sizable premises in the cathedral quarter of the town and expects to benefit from the redevelopment and gentrification of the area over the next few years.Brands that have outperformed recently in the jewellery store include Trollbeads and Henryka, Phil said.Gem-set jewellery is also selling well, and customer tastes have shifted to yellow gold, he added.The coronavirus pandemic remains a concern to Ainsworth because of its potential impact to erode footfall to the shop, and the risk of staff illness, Phil said. The window display, refreshed every few weeks, centred on Mother’s Day in March, and featured a large variety of stock, from diamond cuts by Royal Asscher to watches, such as Bering, Elliot Brown and Dreyfuss.The jeweller is stepping up its social media activities, notably on Instagram, in order to highlight new stock, triggering purchase enquiries.
Just Diamonds reports record results driven by new customers
March 3, 2020 Just Diamonds, a Birmingham-based CMJ supplier of certified diamonds with unique buying software, has reported record results in its fourth year of trading driven by new customers, with turnover up 9.5 percent year-on-year in 2018/19.“With an increase in both headline sales and profitability, Just Diamonds Ltd smashed through its previous four years’ results with all-time high figures,” said managing director Dinesh Parekh.“The last 12 months have seen the business acquire a good flow of new customers -- the majority of whom have the possibility to really develop their businesses with us.“In the first 6 months of 2019/2020 we exceeded the turnover of the whole of 2016/2017.”Just Diamonds, which is a member of the NAJ and is based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, has developed a unique business model centred on its web-based diamond selector platform.“The platform makes the selection of diamonds incredibly simple for the jeweller, and software can be ‘white labelled’ to suit the needs of the company. Our motto is ‘keep it simple, keep it smart’ (KISS),” Dinesh said.Just Diamonds’ software allows customers visiting a brick-and-mortar jewellery shop to choose from a huge variety of certified white polished diamonds for extraordinary value.Most of the certified diamonds offered by Just Diamonds, have GIA reports. Some stones are certified by IGI, or HRD, and the range includes some EGL-certified diamonds.A decision by the company to supply small diamonds and melee to manufacturing jewellers and workshops has boosted the company’s results, Dinesh said. Just Diamonds has started to supply UK and EU-based companies, targeting small businesses such as manufacturers and workshops.Dinesh has travelled to India and Hong Kong, established a network of supplier contacts, and increased the company’s range of diamonds on offer, all at highly competitive prices.“We purchase all of our stones directly from the major diamond dealers/polishers and manufacturers around the world rather than from local merchants, but we realise we need to hold stock. We have over 300 certificated diamonds currently in our inventory,” Dinesh said.“By doing this, we have managed to garner the purchasing power of much larger companies.”Just Diamonds has added laboratory-grown diamonds to its portfolio in response to growing customer demand.“We understand that the consumer demands variety, choice and price,” Dinesh said.“With that in mind, we have added laboratory-grown diamonds to our portfolio, and soon they will be available on our platform.” Just Diamonds also supplies high-quality ring mounts and finished jewellery, mainly bespoke items requested by existing customers.“We are happy to work with all UK-based mount suppliers where we offer a free collection/delivery and setting service if the diamond has been purchased from us,” Dinesh said.“This gives our customer the biggest choice with unlimited restrictions.”
Jewellery Outlook Editor David Brough receives Thai trade award
BANGKOK, February 27, 2020 - David Brough, a former Reuters foreign correspondent and editor who later developed a global digital trade magazine Jewellery Outlook, received Thailand's Friend Award 2020, granted by the Commerce Ministry for his support to the Thai gems and jewellery sector.The award ceremony took place during the February 25-29 edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair. Gems and jewellery represent Thailand's third biggest export sector in value terms.Brough, who joined Reuters in London from St. Andrews University as a graduate trainee journalist in 1985, won the A. H. Boerma Award of the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) in 2002-3 for raising public awareness about hunger.During more than 30 years with Reuters until 2016, Brough had foreign postings over 16 years in the United States, Ecuador, Venezuela, Cyprus (Middle East and Africa Desk), Portugal and Italy.It was during his final foreign posting for Reuters in Rome as Commodities Correspondent, Italy (1999-2004) that he covered the U.N. food agencies and started reporting on the Italian jewellery sector, which triggered his passion for the jewellery and gemstone business.He now lives in London and Hampshire and travels to jewellery trade fairs around the world which he promotes through his magazine.Brough contributes regularly to the UK’s Retail Jeweller and other trade media, and is the “Man on the Move”, a roving correspondent for the UK’s National Association of Jewellers (NAJ).He is also the Precious Metals and Gems Editor of International Jewellery London (IJL.)
International Jewellery London Opens Submissions for the IJL Inspire Seminar Programme
Industry professionals’ chance to shape the debate and reach a global audience– submit your IJL seminar now! IJL 2019 will take place at Olympia from 1-3 September 2019
PRESS RELEASE. London, 8 April 2019: International Jewellery London (IJL), long-established and world-leading jewellery trade event, has opened its seminar programme – The IJL Inspire Seminar Programme – to submissions from industry professionals.Submit your event for IJL here: www.jewellerylondon.com/InspireSeminarProgrammeLast year the refreshed IJL Inspire Seminar Programme opened the stage to discuss issues that matter and trends that shape jewellery and watches; from 3D printing with precious metals to lab-grown diamonds, to gemology and human rights in the jewellery supply chain, current trends such as SS19; co-created and bespoke jewellery; bridal trends; jewellery retail and practical sessions including transforming the high street store, customers in a digital world, getting to grips with Instagram, photographing jewellery.The seminars will take place in theatres across the show floor: the Inspiration Theatre, sponsored by Fairtrade Foundation, the Retail Theatre and the Catwalk Theatre.IJL welcome submissions from everyone across the jewellery industry; from emerging design talents to established brands, with retailers, buyers, designers, gem dealers, Assay offices and suppliers. All industry professionals are encouraged to take part.The seminar submission form will be accessible via the IJL website until the deadline for submissions on the Thursday 27 June. IJL will consider submissions and let people know if they’ve been successful by the end of June.IJL 2018 welcomed 500 exhibitors from 39 countries including 15 new countries ranging from South Korea, Czech Republic, Peru and Colombia to Qatar and Sierra Leone. IJL’s Diamond Club, which hosts the biggest international buyers, saw attendance up by 60% on 2017, with new attendees in 2018 from Canada and Jersey.www.jewellerylondon.com
Interviews
Paola, what will be the key focus of your webinar?I will discuss how the current crisis will reshape the future of the jewellery business. This is a public service broadcast for the global jewellery industry on Jewellery Outlook.I will discuss how the closure of brick-and-mortar jewellery shops – from the UK to Italy and India -- will lead to big shifts in digital marketing, and I will give a glimpse of key trends and product and consumer directions.Who should join the webinar?I want the webinar to be highly interactive and I will welcome questions. Anyone who works in the global jewellery -- or luxury -- trade will be welcome to join, whether they work in a small independent retail shop or for a great international house like Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels.How will the global jewellery landscape change due to coronavirus?My talk is called “CRACKS” because it is inspired by the fault lines that disrupt the Luxury industry as it evolves in new directions across global society.There will be a fundamental reshaping of the industry. Those with the most focused and comprehensive digital and social media marketing strategies will survive and flourish. Old brick-and-mortar style business models will need to rapidly gear up their digital strategies to reach out to people who are locked down at home.While there will be less immediate demand for jewellery at the height of this crisis, as people will be focusing on their families’ health, I predict that as the crisis ends, there will be a burst of pent-up demand for jewellery.People will appreciate the reassurance and emotional well-being that jewellery gives.I wish to instil a strong sentiment of hope as things will get better – the industry will restructure, and will need to step up storytelling and powerful emotional messages to consumers. Paola De Luca is head of The Futurist, a luxury market intelligence agency. She is the Founder of the Trend Vision Jewellery & Forecasting independent observatory of IEG, Italy.Paola has over 20 years’ experience as a leading luxury and jewellery industry creative director and strategist. She is well-known for her public speaking at trade events and for spearheading editorial projects, such as her latest book published by Rizzoli: “Farah Khan: A Bejewelled Life.”https://thefuturist-pdlg.com/
March 25, 2020 - Award-winning London-based jewellery designer Alexander Davis, who has a showroom on Duke Street near Selfridges, has like other UK jewellers shut his retail premises and is now working from home. A well-planned digital strategy will be essential for businesses to thrive through the coronavirus pandemic, he tells Jewellery Outlook Editor David Brough.
Alexander, what are your plans for your workshop?During this lockdown I have transferred my workshop and stock to my home in Hampshire so that I can carry on making commissions and fulfilling online purchases and I am using technology such as WhatsApp and video conferencing to stay in contact with customers and colleagues.It will also be a good opportunity to work on new concepts and designs. I have a lot of interesting ideas in the pipeline and will be spending the time wisely!!As your customers self-isolate, will you be boosting your digital and social marketing activities and online retail presence?I think it’s important to stay in touch with your customers and use this opportunity to develop your digital strategy.I want to get customers thinking about the possibilities for their next commissions so I’ll be sending out newsletters with lots of cool ideas for pieces of jewellery. 
How do you see the UK jewellery sector transforming as a result of this crisis? What messages should the sector be sending out to consumers?There will certainly be an increase in online marketing and jewellers with a strong online presence already stand in good stead to maximise this opportunity.I think in these difficult times people should treasure what makes them happy and can brighten their lives, and having jewels that are crafted with love and care can have a very positive effect.www.alexanderdavisjewellery.com
Q. How will the coronavirus pandemic affect the market for rare and exquisite investment diamonds?Ilan Kaplan: I do not believe that the market for rare and exquisite investment diamonds will be affected at all as a result of the current coronavirus pandemic. While there might be a temporary liquidity squeeze in these markets, I do not foresee these prices coming down at all. I think it's also important how we define “exquisite investment diamonds”. For me, the definition would be expensive, super rare, top end coloured diamonds.By virtue of the fact that these natural resources are so rare and so sought after, the value would be immune to short-medium term ripples in the world financial markets.
The value of these items is not determined by simple economic supply/demand fundamentals but rather by the inherent value of such a rare natural resource.Just think back to the Wittelsbach Blue diamond, which in December 2008, when the world was in the midst of a financial crisis, sold for $24.3 million, at the time the highest price ever paid for a diamond.The sale of this 35.56 carat fancy deep grayish blue VS2 diamond, with its combination of rarity and royal provenance, made headlines round the world. 
Q. What impact will the recent big cuts in interest rates, the slide in stock markets and the surge in the gold price have on demand for rare diamonds?Ilan Kaplan: I see the current macro-economic conditions being a huge support for the demand for rare and exquisite investment diamonds.Substantial amounts of cash have been freed up by the significant liquidation of equities and other tradeable assets around the world.Interest rates are being taken to zero or close to zero in most of the developed world and the only seemingly safe asset class presenting itself at the moment is the US Dollar, but with yields close to zero.Enter a US Dollar denominated asset class which has performed very well over time and is immune to most financial market fluctuations – rare and exquisite investment diamonds.
It is imperative that potential investors understand three crucial points.
Firstly, that purchasing these items from reputable sources is of the utmost importance.Secondly, investors must feel that they are getting the fair and correct market prices for them.And thirdly, it is also crucial that investors understand the bid/ask spread when it comes to making such an investment.This would be defined as the difference between the purchase price and the inherent value of the diamond, the difference being the supplier's mark-up.It is therefore vital to understand that such an investment would be for the long term. At iSparkle, we are very well positioned to take care of our clients in this regard. As well as trading in the wholesale diamond market, iSparkle also looks after high net worth individuals and asset managers who are looking for alternative asset classes.We bring both diamond and financial market knowledge and experience to the table and are therefore perfectly equipped to advise clients as to the best investment diamond for their particular needs.Most of our diamonds come straight from the source, are cut and polished by us and transferred on to our clients with minimum difference between the client's purchase price and the inherent value of the diamond.We hold our clients’ hands (after much hand-sanitizing!) and advise them in making the best long-term investment decision when purchasing high value, exquisite diamonds. 
Q. Which types of investment diamonds will be the most resilient?Ilan Kaplan: Most of the world’s diamonds would not qualify to be defined as investment diamonds. Most diamonds are a store of wealth which demonstrate very little capital growth over time.When purchasing a diamond for investment purposes, it is crucial to receive the correct advice from a trusted source so that the asset purchased will not only store wealth but so that this wealth will grow over the lifetime of the investment.The most resilient investment diamonds over time have proven to be super rare, top end coloured diamonds.Even within this category, it would be prudent to match the correct item with the individual investment requirement.Investors have different budgets and different requirements as far as duration of the investment is concerned.Just last week we looked after a high net worth family who were looking to invest in a rare diamond and we suggested to them a rare pink stone. Q. What will be the impact on the market for investment diamonds of the cancellation of trade fairs and risks that physical high-value auction gatherings may be cancelled too? Will trade in top tier diamonds shift increasingly online?Ilan Kaplan: I believe that the market for high end investment diamonds is made through relationships between investor and supplier.The general wholesale diamond trade will need to adapt to a new normal in this fast-changing world.There will definitely be more trade online as most of these items have been standardised and commoditised with prices being determined by supply and demand.When it comes to expensive investment grade diamonds, it is difficult to imagine an extensive investment being made without seeing the actual item.Plans can be made to send the diamonds over to the client for inspection prior to the investment decision being taken. I don’t see the actual trading in the top tier items going online but rather I believe relationships will be managed less face-to-face and more online. iSparkle:iSparkle sources rough diamonds in Africa, cuts and polishes them and sells them to the leading players in the diamond wholesale markets. iSparkle specialises in diamonds which are 3 carats plus, and in yellow, pink and blue diamonds. The company is committed to savvy sourcing and competitive pricing, while outsourcing manufacturing to the best factories for any particular diamond.iSparkle’s founder and CEO Ilan Kaplan is a chartered financial analyst (CFA) who is rooted in the African diamond industry and a former chairman of the South African Diamond Manufacturers Association.He is one of the world’s most well-qualified experts in large natural diamonds, because he spent over a decade running the South African operations of one the world’s most successful and high-profile diamond manufacturing companies.
Valuer Membership Expands to Engage Wider Community
The Institute of Registered Valuers (IRV) has expanded its membership categories to encompass a larger valuing community through specific membership categories for Specialist Valuers, Student Valuers and Retired (non-valuing) members.These new categories sit alongside existing categories of membership (Fellow and Member) and have been brought in response to valuer demand.Barry Sullivan Chair of the NAJ’s Professional & Technical Standards and IRV (PTSI) Steering Group said,“We are aware that there are a significant number of professionals who carry out valuations, but do not currently meet our criteria for full MIRV (Member) or FIRV (Fellow) status but do want to achieve this level. These categories sit alongside our existing categories of membership and have been developed in response to valuer demand. There have been extensive discussions at PTSI and before it the IRV Committee, and I’m pleased to say that we have finally overcome some hurdles and can welcome into membership these important groups.”Image: IRV Members and Fellows will be issued with an ID card for 2020, in order to demonstrate their professional credentials. NAJ Chief Executive Simon Forrester said of the new categories,“Professional Institutions need to have a way of bringing in and engaging the practitioners of tomorrow, and keeping those with lots of knowledge close to the sector, hence the introduction of the Student and Retired categories. With one eye on ensuring our sector remains fit for the future, we are committed to creating a structure suitable for Chartered status, and are actively pursuing this with a third party."Valuers’ standards within the IRV are the benchmark for the UK jewellery industry and are comparable with other professions, as MIRV’s (Members) and FIRV’s (Fellows) are subject to ongoing monitoring to assure quality and accuracy of their valuations, alongside Continuing Professional Development, and minimum educational qualification standards.""In a recent survey of 2,500 members of the public regarding the importance of a professional valuation; 63% said it was important to them. We hope the valuer community can see that, as the professional body for jewellery valuers, the IRV has a bright future ahead of us - with standards and professionalism at the very heart of it.”Students and Retired Members will in effect be Associates so will not appear on the Find a Valuer directory due being subject to lesser criteria, while Specialists will be expected to reach the same standard as Fellows or Members but will appear on the Find a Valuer directory. Specialist Valuers is a practicing category, and recruitment to this group will involve an interview process to assess suitability.This development comes alongside the introduction of ID cards and new certification for valuers registered with the Institute, a move Forrester says is “designed to demonstrate IRV professionalism and standards and assure credentials to those both within the trade and outside of it".For more details on joining any of these categories, interested parties can contact Sandra Page, IRV Coordinator by emailing Sandra.page@naj.co.uk.About the IRVThe Institute of Registered Valuers is the only professionally recognised valuation body in the UK, acknowledged by insurers and wider trade as the pinnacle of professional valuation services. A part of the National Association of Jewellers, its members benefit from free access to the entire 2,000+ NAJ membership, daily referrals, business benefits and services, and recognition from insurers and retail customers alike. IRV Members will be able to interact with retailers at the forthcoming NAJ Summit, designed to bring together the whole of the UK jewellery sector.
Andre Michael introduces GIA-certified half-carat engagement rings for CMJ Trade Event
LONDON, February 2020 - Hatton Garden-based diamond jewellery supplier Andre Michael is introducing an extensive range of GIA-certified 0.50-carat solitaire engagement rings in time for the CMJ Trade Event.“This is an affordable range, designed in the UK for the UK market, both classical and cutting-edge designs, and beautifully made, with the quality assurance and prestige of GIA certification,” Andre Michael said.“It’s an opportunity for retailers to offer quality engagement rings at an excellent price, as by focusing on the 0.50-carat segment, we can get our costs down in a highly competitive market. We have paid particular attention to getting the product right.”The rings, created in the UK, are available with rapid delivery times, in brilliant-cut diamonds in 18-carat gold and in platinum in two qualities: G colour with VS clarity, and H colour with SI clarity.The rings, which can be engraved, can be viewed on the Andre Michael website.“Retailers are welcome to visit us at the CMJ Trade Event on February 16-17 to look at the collection,” Andre Michael said.The rings can be offered by retailers to their customers as silver sample “proposal rings”: a customer can propose with the sample ring and then return to the retailer to make the order.“Retailers are also invited to phone our office so that we can arrange an appointment for a viewing of the collection,” Andre Michael said.Andre Michael jewellery is manufactured using state-of-the-art technology, which facilitates low costs and benefits from the support of highly efficient German systems.For press enquiries, Email: info@andre-michael.com; Tel. 0207 430 1122.
Fabergé Geneva boutique showcases Romanov Necklace
GENEVA, Switzerland, March 25, 2012 – The Geneva boutique of luxury jeweller Fabergé is showcasing the Romanov Necklace, a magnificent contemporary emerald and diamond collar.
This masterpiece is a regal reworking of an early Fabergé jewel, recreated and contemporised from an archival gouache design dated 1885.
Fabergé customers have been invited to view the Romanov Necklace at the elegant Geneva boutique located at Rue Pierre Fatio, 5, near the Rue du Rhone watches and jewellery shopping hub in central Geneva, Fabergé’s Alexandra Dermange told Jewellery Outlook during a visit to the shop.
“We are very lucky to have it,” Dermange said.
The necklace, striking in its timeless elegance, was conceived by Fabergé’s in-house design team in collaboration with a leading Parisian high-jewellery workshop.
The complex and challenging design process took two months, followed by 14 months of intense and meticulous hand workmanship by some of the world’s finest artisans, goldsmiths and gem-setters.
The breath-taking composition was conjured from a dramatic collection of 79 emeralds of exceptional quality, totalling 186.85 carats, featuring specially-cut sugar-loaf cabochons and a single pear-shaped drop of 30.65 carats.
The emeralds, ethical and ecologically sound, were sourced directly from Gemfields’ Zambian mines and hand selected one by one, in the rough, at auctions over a period of a year, by Fabergé’s Creative Director, Katharina Flohr, who ensured that the emeralds were perfectly matched in colour and character.
Each rough emerald was then cut to the very particular specifications of the design.
Superbly crafted in white gold, the Romanov necklace is ingeniously articulated to spread over the shoulder and neckline in a silky openwork trellis of sumptuous emeralds and white round diamonds and rose diamonds, shimmering with a soft, vintage lustre.
In all, the necklace is set with 2,225 gemstones, totalling 363.48 carats, including 1,991 round white diamonds, totalling 98.15 carats, 151 rose cut diamonds, totalling 43.29 carats, with one rose diamond of 0.67 carats and a pear-shaped rose cut of 3.48 carats.
The high drama of the Romanov necklace with its spectacular lace-like collar is complemented by a very modern versatility: the necklace has been impeccably constructed in three separate parts and can be transformed and worn in several different ways.
The stunning choker detaches from the collar, allowing the two necklaces to be worn separately, while the choker can be worn alone or with the emerald drop pendant.
“The fact that you can wear it in different ways, makes it especially interesting,” Dermange said.
The Romanov Necklace is expected to be exhibited at the Top Marques Monaco show on 19-22 April.
Andre Michael to launch hand-engraved bridal rings at CMJ Trade Event
LONDON, July 2019 - Hatton Garden-based diamond jewellery supplier Andre Michael is launching a new hand-engraved premium wedding and engagement ring collection at the CMJ Trade Event in August.
The rings from the “Orange Blossom” collection, which will be hand engraved on their sides, will feature a centre stone diamond, in a choice of cuts, including round, princess, emerald, oval and marquis, surrounded by pave.
“A highly skilled craftsperson does all of the ornate hand engraving of the ‘Orange Blossom’ rings,” Andre Michael said.
“The rings are also milgrained at the border, giving a premium feel.”
“The Orange Blossom collection is an exceptional product that we will showcase to the independent retailers visiting the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) Trade Event in Birmingham on August 4-5,” Andre Michael said.
The “Orange Blossom” rings will be available in 9- and 18-carat gold, platinum and palladium.
Andre Michael jewellery is manufactured using state-of-the-art technology, which facilitates low and extremely competitive costs, and benefits from the support of highly efficient German systems.
Contact for press enquiries: Email: info@andre-michael.com; Tel. 0207 430 1122. David Brough, mobile 07990568064.
Subscribe to our newsletter
To be updated with all the latest jewellery news and special announcements.
This week, at one store at Zaveri Bazaar a 3.6-gramme 22-kt gold chain cost 8,000 Rupees (about US $172) after a modest discount. A 4-gramme 22-kt gold chain coated in rhodium was discounted to 7,700 Rupees.
At Minar Gems, tourists may choose from a range of gemstones on display, including rubies from India and yellow sapphires. This week, a 4.5-ct ruby was available for 4,750 Rupees. It was attractively presented on a cushion in a small box.
At Vrajlal Karsandas Jewellers, a tiny store, small items of 22-kt gold jewellery were available to suit every pocket, with designs such as a horse's head, letters of the alphabet, a heart or Hindu god Ganesh.
Silver items are for sale at Chandrakant Bhimji Zaveri & Sons, including silver coins bearing the image of Ganesh for around 800 Rupees each.
At another store nearby, a man sat repairing necklaces. He offered a pair of necklaces made out of copper with a coloured stone inlay for just 200 Rupees. 
The gold jewellery stores were quiet during this visit as the late monsoon period was not auspicious for weddings, jewellers at the bazaar said.
"Demand for weddings is likely to pick up in late September. This is a quieter time," one jeweller said as the rain poured down heavily outside and local residents scuttled along the alleyways under umbrellas.
The soaring gold price has led some customers to cut back the weight of their gold jewellery purchases, jewellers said.
Some jewellers buy used gold and diamond jewellery at competitive prices. FOREIGN TOURISTS Tourists were not abundant on this visit, probably due to the heavy monsoon rains, above normal for this time of year, although local jewellers said there are a number of visitors from the Gulf countries visiting in this period, escaping the scorching heat back home.
"Some of the Arab visitors find the monsoon rather refreshing!" one jeweller said.
Western tourists tend to visit more often in December, often arriving on guided tours, and wander from shop to shop haggling with the sales assistants.
Eateries are dotted among the jewellers' shops. Sometimes a jeweller will offer a customer a cup of coffee. 
The jewellers of the Zaveri Bazaar are a hospitable crowd, willing to chat informally about the state of the gold market and the Indian wedding seasons.
A jeweller at Karsandas Lakhman Jhaveri said he believes that now is an exciting time for Indian jewellers because they have a competitive advantage over the European sector.
"Setting a diamond can cost 15 Rupees in India, but 1.5 euros in Europe. India has the latest technologies and strong design skills. This is a great opportunity for us," he said.
The visit to Zaveri Bazaar coincided with the India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), located across the Sea Link at the NSE Complex, where senior industry officials said India was a primary source of jewellery for markets across the world.
(1 US $ = 46.6 Indian Rupees)
