Analyst Paola De Luca urges Indian designers to “deconstruct then reconstruct”
By David Brough
MUMBAI, February 14, 2019 - Respected analyst Paola De Luca, speaking at the Design Inspiration forum at the IIJS Signature trade show, urged Indian designers to “deconstruct then reconstruct” to meet global design tastes.
She gave a presentation to emerging Indian designers, appealing to them to challenge conceived wisdom and to look outward to the fast-changing world.
“You have to ‘deconstruct then reconstruct’,” she said, urging designers to “think outside of the box” to stay attuned to global design trends, such as reinterpreted Art Deco styles with a contemporary twist.Paola De Luca addressing Design Inspirations forum in Mumbai, on sidelines of IIJS Signature, in February 2019
De Luca was in Mumbai to launch the book “AATMAN – Inspirations 2020”, edited by a team of international jewellery analysts at her company The Futurist. The book was created to inspire Indian design talent on the global stage.
The book launch took place at the Royal Opera House on February 13, following the Artisan Awards, hosted by India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), to celebrate Indian jewellery craftsmanship.Artisan Awards 2019, at Royal Opera House, Mumbai, hosted by India’s GJEPC.
Leading Indian designers, such as Anand Shah and Laksh Pahuja, attended the Artisan Awards.
Independent Designers to be featured at DESIGN ROOM at VICENZAORO
VICENZA, Italy, January 2019 - At VICENZAORO January 2019, scheduled to take place from 18th to 23rd January and organized by IEG - Italian Exhibition Group, 12 top independent designers will be the life and soul of THE DESIGN ROOM section with repeat participations, like Alessio Boschi and Alessa Jewelry, as well as new entries on the international scene, such as Anna Maccieri Rossi, Lydia Courteille and Sicis.
Alessio Boschi presents a “sustainable” ring with a global warming theme, entitled “Melting Arctic”. It encompasses a miniature story just waiting to be discovered and is a perfect balance of white gold, diamond, topaz, precious stones and South American walnut.
The ring is the star feature by Alessio Boschi, an Italian designer who has been well established in the high jewellery world for years.
Attention to the tiniest details and selecting precious stones by hand and raw materials from every corner of the world are what characterize Alessa Jewelry, while the jewellery presented by French gemmologist Lydia Courteille, is ironic and surreal.Located as usual in the ICON community Hall, THE DESIGN ROOM section is a unique and exclusive experimentation and creativity area in which to discover the latest international market trends and find exclusive and original items.
Designer brands showcased in Marylebone this Christmas
LONDON, December 2018 – Two talented designer jewellery brands, GFG Jewellery by Nilufer and Alexander Davis Jewellery, are showcasing their latest pieces in the chic London district of Marylebone this Christmas.
GFG Jewellery presents some exquisite one-off jewellery items set with responsibly sourced emeralds, at the Kabiri showroom on Marylebone Lane.
Alexander Davis, a former winner of Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards, shows off his new Atomic Collection, including sphere necklace and hoop earrings, at his boutique at 1A Duke Street.
SARA PEYMANPOUR stocked at Wolf & Badger from AugustLONDON, July 16, 2018 – Newly launched luxury jewellery designer brand SARA PEYMANPOUR London, whose collections are inspired by Sara’s Persian heritage, will be stocked by concept store Wolf & Badger in London, New York City and online from August 2018.The eponymous, responsibly sourced SARA PEYMANPOUR London brand launched in June at Couture London, a showcase invitation-only event for designer brands on Old Bond Street.“Wolf & Badger are very selective and only stock designers with a distinctive style, so this is a great start for my brand,” Sara said. “I am particularly pleased because it is very unusual for Wolf & Badger to stock a brand in all of their outlets – in London, New York and online.”Wolf & Badger is a global online market place for independent brands, with storefronts in London and New York City.SARA PEYMANPOUR sold several pieces from her carved pearl and Golbarg collections to private clients at Couture London.“Couture London was a great success and my pieces were well-received by trade and fashion media,” said Sara, who holds a Masters degree in Jewellery design and is a Graduate Gemmologist of the GIA (Gemological Institute of America.)Her first collection of earrings, rings and necklaces, is called Golbarg (Meaning Petal in Persian), and is inspired by flower motifs found in Persian carpets, featuring sleek, clean lines in 18-k yellow gold set with responsibly sourced natural colour gemstones such as tsavorite garnets, blue topaz and citrine. “The designs are inspired by flowers depicted in Persian carpets and geometric shapes in mosaics and architecture,” said Sara, who grew up in Iran and is now based in London.Sara, whose other design inspirations include nature, the ocean and her travel experiences, is available for bespoke commissions by appointment at her newly appointed luxury showroom on Brook Street in Mayfair.All of Sara’s jewellery is responsibly sourced and made by master craftspeople in Italy, Britain and Iran.Sara has been nominated for her designs in the Arts and Crafts Design Awards, which take place later this year.
Plymouth College of Art graduates showcase their jewelleryPLYMOUTH, England, July 2018 - Visitors were invited into the Plymouth College of Art for an insight into what life is like at one of the UK’s independent art schools.Jewellery students showcasing their jewellery included Rosie Groom, whose work focuses on forms and textures of excavated, decayed and misshapen jewellery and the fascination of the unfamiliar.By using contemporary jewellery techniques, Rosie creates jewellery from an ancient, imaginary time and place. Isabelle LaTurner 'Sensory Jewellery' For her latest collection, ‘Unearthed’, Rosie continues her theme of jewellery inspired by excavation and discovered hoards. She is able to explore textures and forms through her impulsive, instinctive ‘sketches’ of rings.Also on display was work from Samuel Ritte, a maker who focuses in working with metals, jewellery and leatherwork.Using a combination of found objects, precious stones and metal to create bespoke pieces he blends traditional and contemporary techniques, bringing new life and purpose to forgotten items.Another artist to watch is Isabelle La Turner, a maker specialising in silversmithing and multimedia jewellery design.Her collection is a collaboration between jewellery and sensory therapy, allowing people who suffer from anxiety, sensory overloading, OCD, PTSD or combating every day stress, to navigate daily social interactions more freely.Isabelle’s final designs include affordable pendants in silver and plastic to which the wearer can attach colourful interchangeable rubber pouches filled with kinetic sand. These can be moulded and squeezed to provide a soothing distraction.The top of each pendant is also weighted and works to give a calming, grounding pressure on the back of the neck.Continue the conversation on Twitter and Instagram, using #KeepCreating. Rosie Groom 'UnEarthed' 2 Samuel Ritte 'Repair, Adapt, Manipulate'
Rachel Boston wins Best Designer at UK Jewellery AwardsLONDON, July 2018 – Rachel Boston won Best Designer at the UK Jewellery Awards 2018 held on July 4. With awards given out in 20 categories spanning all areas of the trade from design and supply through to marketing and retail, winners included independents Sarah Layton, Mococo, Lumbers and Wongs as well as multiples Watches of Switzerland and Beaverbrooks and suppliers including Citizen, Clogau and Swarovski.Almost 700 people attended the event, often dubbed the “industry Oscars”, this year held in association with Retail Jeweller’s headline partner Clogau.The new venue at the Artillery Garden featured a fun fair to accompany the black-tie awards ceremony, three course dinner and after party.Commenting on tonight’s event, Retail Jeweller editor Ruth Faulkner, said: “This evening’s awards has been one of the most memorable to date.“The new venue has been extremely popular, and we are blown away by guests’ positive reaction to the event. It is a real achievement to be the custodian of the UK’s premier industry award ceremony and the fact that it was so well supported is testament to just how highly it is regarded in the trade.“Our rigorous judging process ensures that winning one of these awards means you are the very best at what you do so huge congratulations to all of our finalists and winners this evening.”
IJL reveals 2018 Bright Young Gems, stars of the futureLONDON, June 2018 - International Jewellery London (IJL) has announced the four winning designers nominated as the Bright Young Gems for 2018 – Katharina Kraus, Zeemou Zeng, Daisy Grice and Yayun Fang – at a special celebratory preview in London, IJL Curated 2018.Now in its fourteenth year, this IJL project provides the winners, all young talented designers chosen as ‘the stars of the future’, with the unique opportunity to showcase their work at this premier industry jewellery show, as well as benefit from dedicated mentoring from jewellery experts before the event to ensure that they maximise the experience.The BYGs are selected from final year students and students from UK colleges and universities who have graduated in the past two years, by a preeminent panel of judges comprising Hilary Alexander OBE, Editor-at-Large Hello Fashion Monthly; Annabel Davidson, Editor of Vanity Fair on Jewellery and Alice Edwards, Jewellery Editor for the Sunday Times Style and The Times LUXX magazine, Liza Urla, influencer and founder of Gemologue and, for the first time representing retailers, guest judge Henry Graham, Creative Director and Co-Founder of Wolf & Badger. As always the standard and diversity of work presented was very high and two additional designers were named as Highly Commended by the judges.Sarah Kitley-Spencer, Event Manager, said: “This year’s four Bright Young Gem winners illustrate the wonderful talent coming out of our universities and colleges. Visitors to IJL always make a bee-line for the Bright Young Gems stand and I am so pleased that we can share the work of these very talented young designers with them. Our thanks go to all the universities who entered and our judges for their support. Congratulations to the winners and we look forward to seeing them on 2 September at Olympia.”Claire Price, Senior Lecturer / Programme Leader at the Birmingham School of Jewellery, says: “Bright Young Gems is an inspirational platform and an incredible opportunity for new graduates to receive valuable feedback and exposure at the beginning of their careers in the jewellery industry.”The 2018 Bright Young GemsKatharina Kraus from the University of the Arts London Central St Martins, is distinguished by her cutting-edge handcrafted jewellery, using traditional techniques and tools. She explores the natural light reflection in gemstones by placing different colours and light reflection styles in juxtaposition with each other, to create visual effects that move and change when worn. The soft light reflections in the hand-carved stones contrast with the precise visual effects of regularly cut gems. Altitude and elevation are central to Katharina’s jewellery with each gemstone angled with or away from the body. This stems from her fascination with the angled lines found in the architecture of cityscapes and the depth of carved lines in stone and concrete, when seen from the ground.Originally from Munich, where no building is taller than the church in the city centre, her designs explore the relationship between idea, design, maker and material, highlighting the fundamental connection between the object and the process of how it is made. Her collections of gold plated sterling combine translucent Agate and transparent Quartz with a wide array of clear coloured stones.Katharina says: “By exhibiting at IJL, I will be able to meet potential stockists and new customers face to face and I am looking forward to the insightful feedback. The mentoring day with industry leaders is an amazing opportunity to grow my network and expand my mind-set. Taking part in the IJL Bright Young Gems initiative will take my business to the next stage and help me establish my work in the UK. Zeemou Zeng, a graduate from the London University of the Arts, designs contemporary fine jewellery and accessories using his wide knowledge of craftsmanship and different materials (such as precious metals, glass, stones and porcelain) to create unique designs which possess both functionality and beauty. Having originally studied interior and architecture design in China, followed by an MA course in Designer Making, his breadth of design studies have influenced the way he approaches design, resulting in innovative and often surprising solutions.This is reflected in Zeemou’s latest fine jewellery collection, Melody, using pearls and cleverly incorporating a unique movement mechanism within each piece. As a result, the pearls not only slide, thereby creating a new look each time the jewellery is worn but also a different sound depending on the length of tube used. This beautiful collection - designed in 18 carat yellow gold, white and rose gold, with Japanese Akoya white pearls and Tahitian black pearls - consists of rings, pendants, bangles and earrings.Zeemou explains: “Being nominated as a Bright Young Gem is the highlight of my career. I am looking forward very much to showing my collections to the UK and international jewellery world at IJL. It is also a fantastic opportunity to network and learn how best to develop my business.”Daisy Grice is a graduate of the Birmingham School of Jewellery with a BA (Hons) in Jewellery and Silversmithing. After working in the industry for two years, Daisy returned to the school and has learnt 3D computer aided design so she is able to combine both her traditional bench skills and modern technology to produce contemporary, statement pieces with a gothic aura. Daisy has won an array of awards for her work and has a strong signature style, inspired by nature’s enchantments and gothic architecture with a twisted dark side she creates “jewellery for the original”. When designing, she usually has a fictional persona in mind, often pulling themes and characters from dark tales and fantasy films to inspire her work. The “Twisted Tales” collection which Daisy has designed and made for her graduate show has a statement neckpiece produced in laser sintered nylon adorned with sterling silver thorns and the easy wear collection is made in solid sterling silver with a highly polished finish set with black diamonds.. The hero piece was designed with the aura of an evil queen, for a powerful woman. Daisy wanted to create something of uniqueness, to make the wearer stand out, Twisted Tales has been designed for alternative, fashion conscious, statement makers.“I am thrilled to have been selected as one of the four Bright Young Gems for 2018, having spent the last year perfecting my skills I am now ready for start of my business and I will be expanding my Twisted Tales collection in preparation for the show Exhibiting at IJL will be the perfect platform to launch myself as a designer to the industry and receive feedback from people viewing my work with fresh eyes.” Yayun Fang, from the University of the Arts London Central St Martins, finds her inspiration for her jewellery designs in the craftsmanship of traditional lace pieces seen in old paintings. By researching and learning bobbin lace making skills, she experimented with her own lace techniques that could be applied to metal. Influenced by daily digital technology and inspired by classic hip-hop jewellery culture, Yahun creates bold yet very delicate jewellery, using traditional craftsmanship and digital software.Yayun says: “I am thrilled to be nominated as a Bright Young Gem. I am going to use this opportunity as a younger member of the jewellery community to show how exciting and cool it is to combine the traditional aspects of craftsmanship with modern technology to create pieces that are unexpected and vibrant.”The two designers whose work was Highly Commended by the judges are Rosie Groom (Birmingham) and Belle Smith (Central St Martins). Examples of their work will be on show at IJL 2018 alongside seven other shortlisted entries.To discover more about this year’s Bright Young Gems, please visit http://www.jewellerylondon.com/brightyounggemsFree registration for IJL is now open. Visit http://www.jewellerylondon.com/attend/ to ensure you receive your badge in the post.
Designer showroom to present jewellery at London Fashion WeekLONDON, June 2018 - Jewellery will take centre stage at London Fashion Week this September, with FACETS PR, the specialist jewellery and watch PR agency, set to host a specialist showroom.The Jewellery Cut Showroom will be located on London’s Old Bond Street and will be open on 17 and 18 September. The exclusive two-day event will invite VIP buyers, luxury press and private clients to view a range of new and exciting collections from designer-led fine and fashion jewellery brandsSarah Carpin, Founding Director of FACETS PR, said: “Applications are now open for designer jewellery brands looking to show their new collections to press, buyers and consumers during London Fashion Week.“We have spaces for up to 15 designers to exhibit and we are looking for a mix of fine and fashion collections with distinct styles that will appeal to buyers from London and international buyers who will be in the capital for Fashion Week.”FACETS PR is a London-based PR, media and marketing agency specialising in jewellery and watches, representing fine and fashion jewellery brands, as well as specialist jewellery companies.London Fashion Week will take place from 14 to 18 September.Any designer brands interested in exhibiting at The Jewellery Cut Showroom should contact Sarah Carpin at FACETS PR on firstname.lastname@example.org.
Arabel Lebrusan wins Designer of Year at 2017 NAJ AwardsSOLIHULL, England, December 2017 – Arabel Lebrusan, renowned for her boundary-pushing designs that are ethically produced using sustainable materials, won Designer of the Year at the 2017 NAJ Awards."I am so happy to have won the Designer of the Year 2017 Award from the National Association of Jewellers,” Arabel said.“It feels great to be recognised for my design expertise but it is also very special that an ethical jeweller with a social mission like myself (and still making exquisite pieces of jewellery) has totally rocked this!"The 2017 NAJ Awards were staged at the annual black-tie Benevolent Society Ball in St Johns Hotel, Solihull, attended by hundreds of leading figures from the UK jewellery trade earlier this month.Other winners included WE Clark & Son (Retailer of the Year); Hockley Mint (Jewellery & Watch Supplier of the Year); Victoria Louise, Lucy Quartermaine (Sales Person of the Year); 77 Diamonds (Website of the Year); Parify (Service Provider of the Year); Stuart Harkness, Harkness Premier Jewellers (Workshop Employee of the Year); and Oddical (KickStarter of the Year.)
Andrew Geoghegan designs at IJL inspired by Golden Age of Portuguese ExplorationLONDON, August 30, 2017 – The latest designs of Andrew Geoghegan, who will be exhibiting at International Jewellery London (IJL), are inspired by the Golden Age of Portuguese Exploration. Rafael, named after the sister ship of the Gabriel, both vessels famed for their journey to India captained by the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama. Inspired by the power of the oceans and the bold explorers who pioneered their waves, this ring from Andrew Geoghegan was designed on the wild coast of Portugal and tells a tale of strength and beauty, of majesty and grace. The collections 'Gabriel', 'Empress' and 'Serpente do Mar' will be making their debut.Reworkings of existing lines, including petit versions of signature engagement rings, will also be launching for this British-made and award winning brand.Stand R136, Level1, Designer BrandsContact info: email@example.com +44 (0) 01937 584654 www.andrewgeoghegan.com
The webinar will take place at 11 am UK time on Tuesday, March 24, 2020.All those wishing to join the webinar must pre-register their attendance via this link: https://jewelleryoutlook.com/?wswebinars=outlook-with-helen-dimmick&page=register
Helen, you are planning the first of a series of webinars. What will the topics be?My webinars will be on diamonds, jewellery, selling jewellery and supporting jewellery businesses, most especially the independent retailers, but may extend to any other relevant industry sector. My talks will have global relevance and are open to trade participants from around the world.Whatever my skills and experience are, I want to share my expertise at this time and we hope to create a collective online community of support.The seminars will show that jewellers are not alone – we will provide support to help them during this difficult time, firstly to stabilise and regroup. If possible, we will then look at going beyond survival to flourish and thrive, whatever the new retail landscape looks like.During this time I'll look at providing education for sales staff, for example, via digital initiatives; virtual methods of communication, and new routes to market for when the social distancing and further lockdown measures take place.The focus will be on how to upskill your team.We also hope that more senior jewellery industry specialists will come on board and share their expertise by giving webinars too. We will also work alongside other organisations providing similar resources.Feedback and questions will be by far the most important element. Listeners need to tell us what advice and resources they need. This platform will be very interactive.
What messages does the jewellery industry need to give out to consumers?Understanding the importance of gemstones and jewellery. Jewellery plays a significant role in the representation of humanity.Since the dawn of time man has adorned himself for status, protection, symbolism and reassurance.Still today the most significant milestones in our lives are represented by the giving and receiving of pieces of jewellery.So too is the everyday message of love and sentiment.This will therefore take on an enhanced meaning and importance during and after the effects of the coronavirus pandemic.For example, working in a jewellery retailer in Bond Street just after the 9/11 attacks, I was surprised by the significant jump in sales in the months that followed.People started to “live for the moment” more and wanted to make important gestures to their nearest and dearest.Our state-backed UK health system, the NHS (National Health Service), and other front-line services are playing a significant role at this time, but we too have a part to play -- never will the giving and receiving of jewellery be more relevantThe word, meaning and embodiment of “precious” will take on enhanced significance.How to tell this story and the method by which it is communicated will be key…
When the crisis eventually ends, do you foresee pent-up global demand re-emerging for jewellery? Who will be the winners and losers?Given the situation above, then yes, but I would anticipate demand will increase at a time when the supply channels will be challenged.This will determine an interesting time in marketing forces and the associated costs.The winners will be those in the industry who hold their nerve, listen, learn, adapt, change, think out of the box and work with greater collaboration and understanding.Liquidating assets and stock, increasing stock turn, sourcing new routes to market, will be essential in the short to medium term.Longer term though it may be survival of the fittest. I anticipate an increased demand for greater authenticity will also subsequently emerge.The individual retailer needs to redefine and reshape his or her own identity.The trusting relationship the individual independent retailer has with clients, and the representation of their own brand (online and in store) as opposed to the brands they sell, will be paramount.Supporting and resourcing this change will be crucial.
WEBINAR - Customer service key as jewellers regroup in response to coronavirus
By David BroughMarch 24, 2020 - Delivering exemplary customer service will be at the heart of rebuilding and rebranding jewellery businesses around the world in response to coronavirus, consultant Helen Dimmick said in a Jewellery Outlook webinar.Link to Webinar replay: Outlook with Helen DimmickAddressing ways for the jewellery industry to tackle the lockdown and move forward as businesses, Helen, a former retailer and former interim business leader of the Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ), a buying group, said delivering an authentic, demonstratively different, customer-focused identity was crucial.Helen’s message was part of a media-driven digital effort to support the global jewellery industry, with Jeweller Outlook in the vanguard.In the first of a series of webinars on Jewellery Outlook, this taster session celebrated the need to make bold business decisions in the face of adversity triggered by the pandemic.As jewellery stores are shuttered, how to positively utilise what feels like a new surplus of time, will be at the forefront of jewellers’ minds.“Isolation should not spell the end of innovation,” Helen said.“Virtual and digital technologies can facilitate collective communications and opportunities to ‘think out of the box’ in addressing the fundamental changes ahead, in preparation for a return of footfall to the high street amidst a potential burst of pent-up demand.”Helen addressed an audience of almost 200 people from the global jewellery trade in the Jewellery Outlook webinar, presenting a UK branding case study to encourage dialogue and innovation, ideas and hope, as many retailers switch immediately from an in-store to an online drive.“Crucially this is just the beginning. The platform has sought and received feedback to direct future content strategically,” Helen said.Jewellery Outlook will be staging more webinars on specific themes relating to the industry’s response to the coronavirus pandemic in the coming weeks from Helen and other industry leaders.Here is a link to the recorded webinar:https://jewelleryoutlook.com/?wswebinars=outlook-with-helen-dimmick