Harshad Ajoomal : Creating Collectibles & Heirlooms
Shanoo Bijlani, Solitaire International, India
Harshad Ajoomal lives and breathes style. He is a jewellery designer who blends gemstones, diamonds and a variety of metals to create a mélange of stunning forms and colours.
Very importantly, his creations, though very high in design flair, are all very wearable.Each piece testifies to the painstaking attention paid to research, the choice of materials, detailing and finish as well as the use of cutting edge technology.
Small wonder then that each line takes him up to six months to complete.
He meets just two clients a day at H. Ajoomal, his Mumbai signature boutique and customizes his high end jewellery to suit his clients’ tastes, whims and personality. This creates made-to-order collector’s items.
Ajoomal went out on his own to set up a high-end couture boutique in 2006, eaching out directly to consumers. Paying attention to detail is second nature to Ajoomal.
“We customize all the time,” he notes, “and that means paying attention to every little thing right from the customer’s skin tone, her persona, her fashion sense and the clothes she would wear to specific occasions.” And all these factors change as people are exposed to more influences.
“People now travel extensively and have a more international outlook. Increasingly many want a high-end or heirloom kind of piece.”
His design team at Ajoomal keeps measuring tapes handy to make jewellery that fits perfectly.
“We have to keep in mind the physical attributes of our clients while designing. For instance, even before we design a necklace, we assess the shape of the client’s collar bones, the shoulder blades, and the length of the neck.”
Ajoomal reveals that his major inspirations come from fashion, travel and reading. But he rarely reads anything about jewellery. Instead he devours books on architecture, textiles, and art, because he firmly believes that one should take inspiration from other streams.
As a designer he is not restricted to jewellery alone. Recently he fashioned a pair of chopsticks made of silver for a customer.
He used vanilla corian, a marble finish granite stone, with the silver, while the holders were created out of grey stones. He also designs his own packaging. Ajoomal makes it a point to visit the Baselworld jewellery show to get a feel of trends and source new gems from various places.
Like every artist, he too has his favourites cuts and colours. He uses Indian rose cuts in contemporary pieces, and loves blending modern and old work set in new forms.
Twisting classic high-end jewellery into contemporary pieces that can be classified as heirloom collectibles, Modern Vintage uses rose-cut diamonds, large faceted emeralds and rubies, various shades of south sea pearls and other precious stones to include earclips, earrings, soft bracelets and cocktail rings.
The larger-than-life collection is coordinated with the season’s high fashion garments and overstated accessories. With yellow gold making a comeback, this collection features bold and chunky pieces in innovative textures and finishes in 18-karat yellow metal.
Opaque gem stones such as white agate, black onyx, coral and mother of pearl are used to contrast with yellow and other colours of gold. This collection consists of chunky cuff bracelets, loose long chains with charms and stones and lots of big hoop earrings.
The western, tasteful range is all about functional simplicity. The collection, with clean cut lines, includes earrings both long and linear and light airy clips, diamond and pearl day rings, bracelets and bangles. The colours used are minimal, making it perfect for casual wear. Set in white 18-karat gold, the pieces are set with diamonds in different cuts and shapes accented with pearls, rock crystal, turquoise and chalcedony.