INTERVIEW- Bespoke fashion jewellery market is growing


By David Brough

MILAN, Italy – The market for bespoke fashion jewellery is vibrant and growing in Europe, driven by consumers’ desire for greater personalisation, Emanuele Guido, Exhibition Director at HOMI Fashion&Jewels Exhibition, said.

The market trend is reinforced by fears that the cost of precious jewellery may veer out of reach for many, due to rising prices of gold and diamonds, Emanuele told Jewellery Outlook in an interview, speaking at the March 2022 edition of HOMI Fashion&Jewels.

Emanuele GuidoEmanuele Guido

HOMI Fashion&Jewels, taking place at fieramilano (Rho), Milan, is a leading European trade fair for fashion and fashion jewellery. Visiting buyers, from Europe and elsewhere, represent department, fashion and concept stores.

“There is a big trend for personalisation of jewellery,” Emanuele said.

“Consumers are changing their behaviour and looking at selecting some pieces (in fashion jewellery) that are unique, that express and communicate their identity,” he added.

Exhibitors at HOMI Fashion&Jewels that offer bespoke services in fashion jewellery include Christina Brampti, Georgia Charal Art Jewellery, Ornella Bijoux, Sharra Pagano, Yvone Christa New York AB, and Atelier Franco P & Sons.

Ornella Bijoux
Ornella Bijoux

Changing retail

“Now shops can offer a different experience: you can wear (fashion jewellery) that is just for you,” Emanuele said.

“You can tell a story about yourself.”

For a jewellery designer, a bespoke service represents a great opportunity to enter the market, without the costly overheads that a jeweller who uses exclusively precious materials would face.

“You can start a new venture in fashion jewels more easily,” Emanuele said.

Sustainability in fashion jewellery is shifting towards having less product that is of a higher and more durable quality in design, with consumers having to wait a little longer for their bespoke orders to be made and delivered.

“There should be a good compromise between what you want to have and how much time you should wait for it, if this means less waste during the production process,” Emanuele said.

Shop locally

There will be an increasing trend for environmentally sensitive consumers to shop for their jewellery closer to home.

A climate of rising prices may mean that fewer materials are used in fashion jewellery designs, in some cases contributing to more minimalist creations.

More independent designers may produce jewellery on their own premises, underpinning a more responsible supply chain and reducing the carbon imprint.

The difficulties people are facing due to the pandemic and the war in Ukraine, may spur on creativity in fashion design to new heights, Emanuele said.

“Creativity is a reaction to the times in which you are living,” he said.

The organisers of HOMI Fashion&Jewels are seeking to add to the number of international fashion jewellery designers exhibiting at the twice-yearly show.

Many fashion jewellery designers were looking to react positively to the pandemic, Emanuele said.

Department and concept stores are benefiting from their fashion jewellery sales which, in some cases, are helping retail outlets to survive, he added.

HOMI Fashion&Jewels Exhibition runs until March 14.

HOMI Fashion&Jewels (