Value, individuality drive trends at Vicenza ORO fair
VICENZA, Italy, September 7, 2013 – Value for money, a quest for individuality, local heritage and technological influences were key features of the latest jewellery design trends, the leading forecaster for Vicenza fair said.
Paola De Luca of TRENDVISION Jewellery & Forecasting told retail buyers in a seminar that there were several new design tiers emerging among the thousands of new lines on show at Italy’s leading jewellery trade fair, which runs until September 11.
“The so-called ‘Essentialist’ is a value-driven, brand savvy consumer seeking out high quality products,” she said, speaking on the first day of VicenzaORO Fall.
De Luca said pieces with sleek designs and minimal surfaces highlighted this trend.
“Abstract, distinctive shapes are popular as the consumer is looking for unique pieces that have a special, sentimental meaning,” she said.
“The consumer is no longer looking at throwaway luxury. Demand is now for investor pieces, one-offs that will be treasured forever.”
Paola De Luca
De Luca was referring to today’s period of austerity following the global financial crisis of 2008-9 that has reshaped attitudes of consumers.
Soaring precious materials prices has driven consumers’ search for value, leading jewellers and designers to mix and match wioth new combinations of materials and use less weight of precious metals in some pieces.
CUSTOMISATION
De Luca identified another type of jewellery consumer as “The Eccentric”, who was motivated by personalisation – defining their own style rather than trying to impress others.
“It’s all about customisation – personality expressing itself,” she said.
The popularity around the world of Pandora jewellery, in which consumers use different combinations of beads and charms according to their own taste, underscores this trend, she added.
The “Eccentric” consumer uses lots of colour in pieces, De Luca said, identifying bold pieces by UK designer Rodney Rayner, an exhibitor at VicenzaORO, as an example of jewellery that meets such demand.
De Luca identified a third type of consumer which she labelled as “The Exoticist” who values local heritage in pieces.
“This consumer appreciates local cultures. Sometimes the designs blend with international flavours,” she said.
Another new consumer group, the so-called “Romantic”, incorporated “over-the-top” designs that bring a sense of royalty to the world.
Pearls are often used in such designs, sometimes bringing a touch of old world craftsmanship but with a modern edge.
“Pearls will be popular in the coming season, with curves and swirls selling well,” the forecaster said.
Finally, De Luca identified the “Digitalist” consumer, often a young person whose world was characterised by fascination for the latest technologies.
“This is a consumer that is difficult to catch as she is always searching for novelties,” she said.
De Luca said wirework designs, sculptural geometry and 3D shapes were in vogue in this category, and singled out pieces by Vicenza-based brand Roberto Coin as meeting this demand.
