JEWELLERY DESIGNERS – Royal Allure – At artgenève, Gübelin Jewellery presents the latest Haute Joaillerie creation and art collaboration with Nikolai Winter


In conjunction with the artgenève art fair, Gübelin Jewellery will be presenting the Royal Allure cocktail ring together with their latest art collaboration. Inspired by the inner world of a sapphire, the jewellery designers created the sculptural cocktail ring. Swiss artist Nikolai Winter then went on to interpret and transform this multi-faceted jewel into a series of new art pieces.

Both works of art from Gübelin Jewellery and Nikolai Winter interpret haute joaillerie, each in their own métier. The Royal Allure cocktail ring presents an interplay of colours and shapes, contrasts and common elements. This is the first time that Gübelin Jewellery has created a piece to be worn as a two-finger ring.

Cocktail ring

The Royal Allure cocktail ring is inspired by the inner world of a Burmese sapphire of 7 ct (94 Gübelin Points), which Gübelin Gem Lab awarded the designation “Royal Blue”. The sculptural cocktail ring with the iconic ruby from Gübelin Jewellery consists of a classical platinum solitaire ring as well as a creative two-finger ring of yellow gold. This allows the jewellery to be worn in three different ways: as a cocktail ring, artfully combining both rings, as a classical sapphire solitaire ring or separately as a modern two-finger ring.

Artgenève, Gübelin Jewellery

Solitaire ring

An impressive sapphire glistens at the centre of the solitaire ring, whose fascinating inner world inspired Gübelin Jewellery designers to create Royal Allure. With the aid of a microscope, they immersed themselves deep into the gemstone, where they discovered geometric structures that reminded them of inflorescences on a rosewood plant. Rosewood is the national flower of Burma (Myanmar). The stately solitaire ring, artistically set in the tradition of Gübelin Jewellery with baguette-cut diamonds, a slender brilliant-cut diamond pavé as well as pear-shape sapphires, exudes shimmering light refractions, individuality and refinement.

Two-finger ring

The creative two-finger ring is a premiere for Gübelin Jewellery: This is the first time they have presented this modern style of finger adornment, translating it directly into the world of haute joaillerie. Two-finger rings are highly fashionable and enjoy a great deal of popularity, but they are very rarely set with high-grade gemstones. In Gübelin Jewellery’s own atelier in Lucerne, creative minds bring together the highest artisanship, unique language of design and colourful gemstones to create an overall work of art.

The ring is a homage to the national flower of Burma: rosewood. As a reference to the delicate, radiant yellow blossoms and slender green twigs, the Gübelin Jewellery atelier chose yellow sapphires and tsavorites in finely gradated shades of green for the two-finger ring. It is also set with diamonds, which radiate light and a sense of ease. Yellow sapphires and marquise shape diamonds symbolise the rosewood in full bloom, framed by entourages set with more yellow sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, outlining the shape of the blossoms.

As a tribute to the splendid yellow flowers, the two-finger ring is made of yellow gold. Yellow gold jewellery is gaining more and more attention, especially in exciting combinations like this cocktail ring, which artfully combines and highlights yellow gold and platinum.

The tsavorites are set in a slender pavé thread along the organically curved ring band, which covers two fingers, along with the characteristic ruby in a cabochon cut. The cocktail ring delights with an interplay of colours and shapes, commonalities and contrasts. Gübelin Jewellery is renowned for its mastery of coloured gemstones as well as its high level of expertise and experience. The designers combine a deep understanding of both their art and their craft in arranging coloured gems in exciting colour combinations, bringing together complimentary colours to create a harmonious composition. Standing out against the faceted gradated shades of green of the tsavorites, the iconic Gübelin Jewellery ruby in cabochon cut creates an exciting contrast. At the same time, the ruby highlights the way the two-finger ring is worn by underscoring the dynamic of the curved ring band, which offers the wearer perfect comfort. In addition, the solitaire ring nestles perfectly into the organic design of the two-finger ring to combine the two rings so they can be worn as a cocktail ring.

For the classic solitaire ring, the designers chose a platinum setting whose cooler colour shade goes well with the blue of the sapphire. Worn in combination with the two-finger ring and as a cocktail ring, the Burmese sapphire lends a further facet by entering into delightful plays of colour with the complementary yellow of the sapphire and the yellow shade of the gold. Prominently placed, the iconic ruby, glistens along the side of the solitaire ring setting. The ruby is known as the King of Gemstones and is associated with love and passion. At the same time, it symbolises Gübelin Jewellery’s passion for coloured gemstones.

Raphael Gübelin, President of the House of Gübelin, explains: “In our art collaborations, we emphasise the creative exchange, interpretation and inspiration – very much in keeping with our Deeply Inspired philosophy. Our jewellery atelier created the sculptural Royal Allure cocktail ring, which Nikolai Winter interpreted, finding inspiration to create his own work of art. Both works of art engage in a discussion of jewellery and add new facets to the topic.”

Nikolai Winter

Upon interpreting the cocktail ring, the Swiss artist was inspired to create a further work of art. In doing so, he concentrated on the characteristic language of forms of the solitaire ring and translated it into his art. The classically designed ring with a central stone also contains the iconic ruby, the trade mark of Gübelin Jewellery, present in the ring setting. Nikolai Winter transports the ring into a new context by vacuum-sealing it. He concentrates on the essence of the ring while exaggerating it at the same time.

Artgenève, Gübelin Jewellery

Nikolai Winter: “Like the House of Gübelin, I am convinced that luxury does not only lie in owning an object. Rather, you have to understand its essence, like its interior as well as its exterior in equal measure, and only then, one will learn to appreciate it. With my series of vacuumed work of art ‘Luxury Goods’, I want to bring attention to how the body and soul of a luxurious object are captured and preserved. The material value transitions into an emotional value to be preserved.”

Luxury Goods

His latest artwork is part of his “Luxury Goods” cycle. In viewing these works, observers enter into a relationship to the luxury objects by seeing their own reflections in the shining mirrored surfaces. The outlines of the vacuum-packed luxury objects are visible and recognisable despite the veil concealing them. Nikolai Winter packages icons of luxury and everyday life. Here he pursues questions of identity and status, sustainability and the zeitgeist of society’s consumer culture. His works are influenced by Pop Art and address themes such as the essence and longevity of luxury objects. The shimmering chrome foil around his works of art lends them an aura of timelessness.

Nikolai Winter was also in charge of the booth design and presentation. Just as the cocktail ring plays with colours, shapes, contrasts and commonalities, Nikolai Winter used these effects to set the scene. He presents the photomicrography of the sapphire in black and white, perpetuating the theme of contrasts. At the same time, the photomicrography is on display in its original colouration together with design sketches and gouaches of the cocktail rings. The blue floor covering is further nod to the “Royal Blue” sapphire as a source of inspiration.

The Gübelin Jewellery atelier embodies authenticity and celebrates the highest level of artisanship. To illustrate this, a wooden stool and its accompanying tools used to forge and create the ring are placed on display. Nikolai Winter picked up on this topic and created five further objects, which interpret and illustrate the individual facets of the tools along with the two-finger ring, wrapping them in chrome foil packaging.

Royal Blue

Two words that cause the hearts of gemstone connoisseurs to beat faster: “Royal Blue”. This is of course the trade name reserved for the highest grade of sapphires in naturally intense, homogeneous and saturated shades of blue. The term was originally coined to describe the highest-quality Burmese sapphires. Such a high-carat example forms the centrepiece of the Royal Allure ring. The quality of this impressive sapphire is also reflected in the Gübelin Gemstone Rating, which describes the quality, rarity and salience with 94 Gübelin Points, giving it the designation “outstanding”.

Burmese sapphires are highly sought after, rare and known for their deep, saturated shades of blue. Adding to their naturally limited availability is the fact that Gübelin Jewellery currently only selects gems from Burma (Myanmar) which were exported before February 2021.

Deeply Inspired

The House of Gübelin’s Deeply Inspired philosophy pervades all aspects of the company’s activities. It is based on a unique combination of beauty, knowledge and expertise, always pursuing a deeper understanding of the profession, in tribute to the family’s pioneering spirit. To symbolise this philosophy, each piece of Gübelin Jewellery contains a ruby. It is considered the King of Gemstones and stands for passion and love. The iconic hallmark of Gübelin Jewellery also stands for the Gübelin family’s passion for coloured gemstones.


Gübelin Jewellery is once again a partner of the artgenève art fair, an established institution on the Swiss art scene. The international fair offers a broad spectrum of modern and contemporary art. The personal atmosphere promotes exchange between art aficionados and exhibitors. The art collaboration is on display from 26th to 29th January at the Palexpo in Geneva. During the four-day artgenève fair, art fans can discover the both the Royal Allure cocktail ring from Gübelin Jewellery and Nikolai Winter’s art piece.

Artgenève, Gübelin Jewellery