MANUFACTURING – Italian jewellery exporters push the frontiers of technology and design


Italian state-of-the-art technological innovation fused with craftsmanship bring “Made in Italy” jewellery into the forefront of global jewellery excellence 

By David Brough

VICENZA, Italy – Many Italian jewellery exporters are family-owned companies, using master craftsmanship and superlative creative “design DNA” forged over generations to hone exquisite jewellery, but what is often under appreciated is that they have also driven forward technical innovation to ensure that their products are unique in the marketplace.


One primary example is FOPE, family-owned in Vicenza since 1929, which has constantly worked to improve on technologies as well as showcase craftsmanship to stay on top of a fiercely competitive fine jewellery market.

At the Vicenzaoro show in January, an export-focused trade event featuring many “Made in Italy” gold jewellery exporters, FOPE extended their popular Solo and Flex’it necklace with fresh technological innovation.

Solo is one of FOPE’s bestselling collections, featuring a gold round mesh that is popular with all ages and genders. New Solo pieces for 2023 have a new rondel design, and diamonds in a larger carat weight, within a new claw setting, which elevate the pieces and the way they catch the light.

MANUFACTURING – Italian jewellery exporters push the frontiers of technology and design


Alongside this, the addition of Flex’it necklaces to the Solo collection is a revolutionary idea, first introduced within the Luna collection in 2022. Unlike the Luna Flex’it necklaces, which have a hidden clasp along the seamless round shape of the necklace, the new Solo Flex’it necklaces have a clasp that has become a design feature. A rondel with a central diamond, set on the “o” of the FOPE logo, hides a secret: a button that activates the opening mechanism.

The new necklaces can be worn comfortably as chokers in a new shorter length, while standard length versions maintain a perfectly round shape that sits beautifully on the skin, thanks to the Flex’it gold mesh.


Another strong innovator is D’orica, an Italian gold jewellery manufacturer that exhibited at Vicenzaoro in January, offering diamond-cut spherical shaped golden bead embroideries featuring multiple facets that catch the light wonderfully, shimmering like diamonds.

“Our secret is contained in every d’orica,” the company says.

The name d’orica has become a clear reference to this particular type of jewellery workmanship. The d’orica has 72 facets that all have to be skilfully crafted to give the jewellery its iconic shine.

MANUFACTURING – Italian jewellery exporters push the frontiers of technology and design

“Furthermore, in order to avoid waste, we have developed technology that enables us to suction up the waste gold and reuse it,” D’orica says.

Testimonials for the company reveal an appreciation of the unique place of D’orica in the gold jewellery market.

“D’orica’s gold beads stand out for their extraordinary luminosity and shine, which is truly unparalleled,” said Gianluca Gigliotti of Florence-based Oro Sei & Co, which works with D’orica.


Vicenzaoro is a leading hub to showcase Italian gold and silver jewellery exporters, with products ranging from high luxury gold and diamond jewellery from companies like Roberto Coin and Damiani, to the small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) that account for most Italian precious jewellery exporters in centres such as Vicenza, Valenza and Arezzo, to the most creative of Italian jewellery designers like Alessio Boschi, a regular star of the “Design Room” featuring some of the world’s most talented designers.

Vicenzaoro, which takes place twice a year in January and September is recognized as a leading conduit for Italian precious jewellery exporters. The show also presents T.GOLD, showing off the latest breakthroughs in machinery used in jewellery production.