Revival in coral and pearl jewellery among top trends for 2019-20
This article for IJL, by David Brough, IJL editor, is reproduced by Jewellery Outlook with kind permission of IJL
Pearls with a contemporary twist, playful coral, and innovative new materials and approaches to metals, are among top design trends for 2019-20 as seen at international jewellery trade fairs in the first quarter of 2019.
IJL will showcase the hottest trends, presenting the most innovative and cutting-edge design products from designers and brands at the show, which runs from September 1-3, 2019.
The following global design trend themes are highlighted for 2019-20:
Since the Sotheby’s sale of a pearl and diamond pendant owned by ill-fated French Queen Marie-Antoinette for a world record price for a pearl of $36 millionlast November, there has been a strong revival in consumers’ fascination for pearl jewellery. The newest designs, seen at European trade shows early this year, present futuristic themes, combining pearls with diamond-encrusted stars and galaxies, and reinterpretations of the past, such as Art Deco tassels.
At the VicenzaOro fair in January, Australia-based Autore showed off intricately crafted pieces from its Stars & Galaxies collection. At Vicenza, Yoko London, which has exhibited at IJL, presented a necklace made from golden South Sea drop shaped pearls combined with diamonds, which will form the basis of the brand’s next collection featuring a blaze of colour.
At Baselworld, Yoko London showed off more affordable combinations of smaller size diamonds with pearls in its new Starlight collection, as well as extraordinary one-offs, featuring Akoya pearls. Several Yoko London pieces incorporated large tassels in a new twist on Art Deco glamour.
Exhibitors showcasing the best of Pearl Jewellery at IJL 2019 include Raw Pearls UK; Matt Aminoff London; ORA Pearls; Pearl Kobo Morishita; Pearls of the Orient and Samuel Jones Pearls.
PANTONE’s colour of the year in 2019 is living coral, a nurturing colour that appears in our natural surroundings, influencing a profusion of coral jewellery creations. Playful and lighthearted coral jewellery featured prominently in the European trade shows in the first quarter of 2019.
Coral jewellery from Chantecler
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Precious coral from the great ocean depths is seen as sustainable in jewellery production, paving the way for exciting new creations to enter the global market this year.
The latest generation of designers “mix and match” unusual materials, such as ebony and bakelite, synthetic rubber and nautical cord, with traditional precious metals and gemstones.
At VicenzaOro, GIADANGROUP, whose pieces are “made in Italy”, combined an eclectic mix of innovative materials with precious stones, giving a fresh look to necklaces and bangles rich in colour. One necklace featured rings of African ebony amidst natural gemstones, while a bangle predominantly in jade incorporated a standout bakelite sphere.
At Vicenza, Bangkok-based designer brand Lucy G. used tough and durable nautical cord, combined with coloured gem-set fruit symbols, in her “Color of Fruit” bracelets. “The cord is resistant and durable and resists rain” said Giuliana Loglisci, owner and designer of Lucy G.
At Vicenza, Florence-based brand Annamaria Cammilli presented 18-carat gold in a range of colours and has launched “chocolate brown” gold rings to complement coloured gold such as “natural beige” and “apricot orange”.
The spread of gold colours was due to the use of different combinations of alloys.
Annamaria Cammilli is a pioneer in showcasing various colours in gold such as the rings from its “Dune” collection, and foresees strong consumer demand in its international markets this year. “Women love this range because they can choose the right colour for their skin tone” said Natasha Lazorova, Annamaria Cammilli’s North America brand manager.
Monica Rich Kosann, an established U.S. brand stocked in Neiman Marcus, well known for its lockets in 18-carat gold, is now venturing into steel jewellery, such as a black steel sun, moon and stars 47-inch chain.
At a smaller Baselworld this year, leading watches brands were still out in force, with Rolex, Patek Philippe and Hublot spearheading the latest design and technical innovations in the main hall.
Technical advances, enduring elegance, environmental and flora and fauna themes (such as the Graff GyroGraff Endangered Species Collection), daring colour combinations, with an upsurge in rose gold and khaki, were out in force across the show.
“A lot of brands are doing bronze watches” said buyer Pratiek Kapoor of New Delhi-based Kapoor Watch Co, who was visiting Baselworld. “Patina dials are popular this year. Khaki green is also a big thing.”
Watch brands at IJL 2019 include: Calvin Klein Jewelry + Watches; BQ Watches; and Dante Cenci UK.