Ten trends from VicenzaOro September 2014
By Carol Besler
VICENZA, Italy, September 7, 2014 – Italian jewelers make pieces that move, sparkle, shine and amaze, which makes attending VicenzaOro a special treat.
The exhibitors at this boutique show in the north of Italy near Venice present jewelry that has the power to set trends worldwide for the coming season, and here are 10 of these important trends.
Not only do many pieces embody two or more of these trends at once, making them more desirable, but in general, more and more Vicenza exhibitors are producing collections that cover a wide range of price points without sacrificing the spirit or grandeur of each collection.
A ring style might be available in a range of center stone sizes or from two to 6 bands incorporated in a multi-band style, and diamond options vary widely. This is an endeavor partly to cater to the U.S. market, which is diverse.
1. Curves. Sculptural shapes that twist and fold like fabric are a new way to use gold that makes it light, yet adds volume in terms of the design. Some of it is electroformed, for a hollow construction that allows for a more bold design. The swirling, curved lines are emphasized with gem setting, with multiple colors arranged within curved borders, like flower beds in a creative garden.
Adam & Eve earrings by Casato
Tattoo motif ring that curves around the knuckle, by Dada Arrigoni
2. Rings. Rings are the most essential element of jewelry and the best way to make a big statement and express your individuality. One of the most prominent trends includes rings in elongated oval shapes. Many are shaped in either a convex or concave direction – this is part of the curve trend. Multiple band rings, knuckle rings and large cocktail rings with dramatic center stones are also important, and faceted stones are also coming back, rivaling cabochons as the important cut for the center stone.
Convex shaped ring in a long oval, with gemstones set in a swirling floral motif, by Palmiero
Gold and diamond ring from the Miss Chi collection from Casato
3. Serpents and flowers are the hot motifs across all segments – interpreted in rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets. They are expressed in gold or gemstones, and most of the serpents have either ruby or emerald eyes. The year of the serpent was 2013, but the motif is still going strong, partly because of the trend toward curves this year, with which the serpent motif is uniquely compatible.
Serpent-motif ring by Palmiero
Floral motif rings by Paolo Piovan
4. Long earrings are now as dramatic as the showpiece cocktail ring. The pieces we are seeing now are bulkier than line earrings but not quite as elaborate as chandeliers. They are somewhere in between, with lots of open space, and plenty of multi-colored gemstones. Many include fringes of chain or beads (see trend number 8), which adds volume and movement.
Earrings in gold, diamonds and multi-colored sapphires, by Palmiero
5. Mixed colors. Even when there is one central dramatic gem in either a ring, necklace or pair of earrings, there is now a strong tendency to mix and match multiple colors together. This is allowing jewellery designers to demonstrate the height of their creativity, like artists experimenting with a bold palette. The result is a spectacular showing of color in all product segments.
Left: Prasiolite ring with diamonds, pink sapphires and tsavorites.
Right: Madera citrine with white and brown diamonds and orange sapphires
6. Doublets are a huge part of the jewellery industry’s current love of color, with a stunning array of combinations that create electric hits of vibrant colors that can’t be achieved with a single gem. Combinations seen at the fair include turquoise, jade, mother-of-pearl, opaque quality gems or enamel covered by rock crystal, pink quartz or lemon quartz.
Rose gold ring with central doublet using rock crystal from
the Anastasia collection by Moraglione
7. Opaque gems, including cloudy diamonds in grey and champagne tones are taking their place alongside transparent gems. When fully faceted, they have a nice, subdued brilliance, and work well as accent stones. Opal is the strongest opaque gem used in jewelry at the moment, and the quality of opal seen at Vicenza is second to none. Although opal is available across all price segments due to the wide range of qualities available, the pieces displayed at this show are at the top of the spectrum, with incredible play of color.
Serpent motif ring from Casato with diamonds
Ring with lilac jade and lilac and pink sapphire, by Moraglione
8. Fringe. Art Deco is probably one of the longest standing jewelry trends of the past century, due to its many possible interpretations. If it’s geometric, black and white or boldly set with ruby, sapphire and emerald, it’s defined as Art Deco. The latest modern interpretation of the trend is the use of fringe as a motif, with strands of gold chain, gold beads or gemstone beads (in ruby, sapphire and emerald). Beads are also being set in rows onto the surface of gold pieces, thus using them in a new way that mimics fringe yet is static – Savoia Gioielli had some spectacular examples.
Ruby and diamond earrings by Casato
9. The big three: Emerald, Ruby and Sapphire. The return of the big three gems is reminiscent of vintage pieces. Right up until the 1990s, these three were considered the only “precious” gems, while all else was (mistakenly) dubbed semi-precious. Ruby and rhodolite are especially hot – in fact red is hotter than amethyst or other purple gems, despite “radiant orchid” being proclaimed the top color of the year by Pantone. Next to red, green is huge, from prasiolite and other forms of green quartz, from opaque to transparent, to emerald or even quartz doublets. Peridot, which looks amazing paired with amethyst, is also making a comeback.
Ruby and diamond ring by Casato
10. Argento. Silver has long been used in fine jewelry. It is strong, takes a high polish and is a color-fast, accessible alternative to white gold. The silver jewelry market is comprehensive however, and includes everything from the cheapest costume jewelry to top-of-the-line precious jewelry. Since the recession, many of the most important Italian brands known for their superior goldsmithing are now making very fine silver jewelry, producing it according to the highest standards of gold craftsmanship and superior finish. A silver ring with a spectacular fine gemstone or set with high-quality diamonds, is not an unusual sight from top brands at this fair.
A suite of sterling silver jewellery with gemstone beads by Stefani Argento
Sterling silver pendant by Stefani Argento