TRADE FAIR COMMENTARY – Buoyant market seen for fine jewellery, high-quality gemstones at GemGenève

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By David Brough

GENEVA, Switzerland – The fine jewellery, diamonds and coloured gemstones markets are well-supported, with high quality gems increasingly hard to source, dealers attending GemGenève (May 11-14) said.

GemGenève gathers many leading figures from the industry and has become a key feature of the trade fair calendar. Retailers from top maisons and high jewellery collectors attend.

TRADE FAIR COMMENTARY – Buoyant market seen for fine jewellery, high-quality gemstones at GemGenève

The GemGenève news conference took place on the eve of the show, on May 10, 2023

The overall mood at this edition was buoyant: Raj Mehta, director of one of the world’s largest diamond manufacturers, Rosy Blue, whose stand was buzzing throughout the show, spoke of strong orders and enquiries.

Darshit Hirani of Mumbai-based manufacturers P. Hirani noted vibrant demand for fancy yellow diamonds, underpinned by a campaign by an upscale retailer showcasing yellows. Darshit’s comments were reinforced by dealers at Hong Kong-based dealer Kunming, who also spoke of strong business lately in yellows. 

Coloured gemstone dealers said high jewellery retailers were eschewing new supplies of Burmese origin goods, due to the authoritarian crackdown in Myanmar, thereby perhaps boosting market opportunities for alternative origins such as Mozambique, Madagascar and Sri Lanka.

Highlighted diamonds and gemstones seen at GemGenève during an Insta Live tour @jewelleryoutlook with Gem-A CEO Alan Hart, included an exquisite 6-carat green diamond seen at the stand of Scarselli Diamonds; an array of no-heat sapphires and rubies of exceptional sizes; and an assortment of sample peridots at Fuli Gems, prior to the expected start of commercial operations at a mine in northeastern China later this year. (See the Insta Live GemGenève coverage @jewelleryoutlook, featuring interviews on market trends, including separate talks with Caram, Tank and Fuli Gems.)

TRADE FAIR COMMENTARY – Buoyant market seen for fine jewellery, high-quality gemstones at GemGenève

Insta Live with Rahul Jain of Caram @jewelleryoutlook

GemGeneve presented talented new designers in the Vivarium, curated by jewellery historian Vivienne Becker, and in the new and emerging designers section, curated by Nadege Totah.

The Vivarium’s designers at this edition included London-based Lia Lam, presenting architecturally inspired fine jewellery pieces, sometimes influenced by personal lifetime experiences, and featuring exquisite diamonds and gemstones combined with 18-carat gold.

Another highlight of the show was a piece of diamond jewellery manufactured by Surat-based Hari Krishna Exports, which has the world record for the most diamonds set in one ring.

Separately, respected diamond industry figure Alex Popov talked of plans to launch a World Diamond Museum in the next few years.

TRADE FAIR COMMENTARY – Buoyant market seen for fine jewellery, high-quality gemstones at GemGenève

Alex Popov (right), speaking with Jewellery Outlook Editor David Brough