The theme running through the work of the four individual, independent designer-jewellers in the Vivarium Quartet at GemGenève (November 3-6, 2022) is EMOTION. The works, while all completely different, showcase a major design trend as identified by Vivarium curator, jewellery historian Vivienne Becker.
“I believe we are at a major turning point in contemporary jewellery design. Themes and motifs, the narrative of jewellery are no longer about figurative representation, naturalism or straightforward storytelling, but about stylised design that generates the emotions we experience when we see a particular motif, a flower, plant or leaf, the emotive message of a particular story. The stylisation of motifs stimulates the imagination, making a deeply personal, emotional connection between jewel and wearer.” Vivienne Becker
Burmese leaves ring
For Alix Dumas, this is particularly important as she aims to recreate the responses evoked in her personally, by the sight of crisp autumn leaves, a rolling wave, or by the contemplation of eternity in the Mobius line. “Each jewel tells part of me,” she says.
BO Sage Fantaisie Spinelles – black rhodiage
The ribbons and bows of Philippe Lauras are alive with movement and energy, conjuring associations of femininity and vitality, making the most classical of motifs modern.
While into her intricate storytelling jewels, Elena Okutova weaves a sense of discovery, magical revelation and nostalgia, drawing us into other worlds.
Susan’s Five-Pendant, Bruyere
Finally, at GemGenève this November, Alexandra Jefford, arch-modernist with an unmistakable graphic style, unveils a series of new jewels that express her love for her late mother, deeply emotive, telling of the preciousness of memories.
Alexandra explains in her own words:
“Susan’s five :
I was thinking that all I thought about was what my mother would have liked.
Having said that, she loved everything I made and always looked on in amazement when I showed her my pieces.
She had a real mother’s pride and gave me the space and the encouragement to make and do what I wanted and always said and reminded me of my talents. Lucky me.
I have thought about her everyday since she left. So this is my mini homage to her, these 5 pieces; it is modest like her, restrained and fun — and a bit of a twist of something classic and timeless like her.
She was a huge inspiration to me and created these ripples of love all around her.
She loved plain gold, and simple beautiful designs. She wore her jewellery everyday, changing each day for something fresh and beautiful. She took great care with everything she had and wore.
I think she would have loved this one and this little dedication would have made her burst with pride.”