From the left: Timothy Iwata, Senior Director of Fine and High Jewelry at Prada Group; Marianne Zani, CSR and Exceptional Sourcing Director, Chanel Watches and Fine Jewellery & Chair of the WJI 2030 Fostering Inclusiveness Committee; Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director & Secretary General, WJI 2030, Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability and Institutional Affairs Officer at Kering; Valérie Messika, Founder and Artistic Director of Messika; Raj Mehta, CEO & Managing Director, Spectrum B.V. & Board Member of WJI 2030.
Jewellery Outlook Editor David Brough in conversation with Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director of Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030
The Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030 was formally established in 2022 by Kering and Cartier, delegated by Richemont, at Watches & Wonders, with Chanel now also serving on its Executive Committee. WJI 2030 is recognised as an Association of Public Utility by the Swiss authorities. It is a multi-stakeholder collaborative platform with a focus on actioning the three interconnected pillars: climate resilience, preserving resources (nature and water) and fostering inclusiveness. It has 88 members, including recently joined Messika and the Prada Group.
Many industry stakeholders see WJI 2030 as being a frontrunner and a pioneer under your strong leadership. Do you agree with that?
Allow me first to applaud the good work that is being done by many organisations in our industry including CIBJO, FH, FHH, Gold Principles Group, LBMA, RJC, Swiss Better Gold, UFBJOP, World Diamond Council, and World Gold Council, just to name a few.
Our ambition is not to be a frontrunner; our ambition is to work with the industry to advance on critical topics that are relevant for the business. We are an industry where product integrity is key; it is all about trust and that is a shared responsibility. This demands a leadership mindset rooted in humility, dialogue, and action. No single actor has all the answers. Effective collaboration means actively engaging, empowering, and co‑creating solutions together – and then committing to implement them.
What we have noticed is that suppliers, often family‑run businesses, need practical tools, capacity‑building, and long‑term support to succeed. They are not peripheral actors; they are often the extended family of luxury brands. Operationalisation of today’s requirements from standards to legislation is key and requires consistent approaches, credible data points, and common frameworks where companies from all sizes and maturity levels can learn from one another.
At the same time, voices such as civil society, academia, investors, and communities are too often absent from decision‑making. Lasting progress requires bringing these perspectives into the room and shaping practical solutions aligned with evolving policies and regulations to support the business on the ground, not just to de-risk but also to create genuine positive impact.
We see our role, as WJI 2030, being complementary. We provide a collaborative platform that focuses on shaping tools and capacity building aligned with evolving policies and regulations on the interconnected pillars: climate, nature and water, and inclusiveness.
The reality is that also our industry is strongly impacted by evolving regulatory requirements, stakeholder expectations, especially the younger consumers, and the impact of the climate and nature crisis. Companies need actionable tools to navigate this transition. With regulatory requirements evolving rapidly towards greater transparency and product-specific data, organisations cannot afford to be reactive. They must anticipate these changes today by investing in the systems and infrastructure that will enable them to take concrete action and deliver credible outcomes tomorrow.
With humility, we see our role as supporting the industry as a whole. Everything we develop is shaped through multistakeholder consultation, tested in practice, and ultimately made open-source so that the entire sector can use the tools.
Iris Van Der Veken, Executive Director & Secretary General of the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030, outlining key points from the 2025/26 WJI 2030 Progress Report, during a presentation at Messika in Paris on July 9, 2026.
2. We have noticed your strong leadership on Nature and Water. Why is this important for the industry, and can you share a few practical examples of your work achieved?
Today, 55% of global GDP – equivalent to around US$58 trillion – is moderately or highly dependent on nature. We are already seeing the consequences of this dependency also in our industry. In Gujarat, India – home to Surat, where around 90% of the country’s diamond polishing takes place – water-intensive operations are increasingly vulnerable to climate-related disruptions. Recent extreme rainfall and flooding have affected communities, interrupted operations, and placed pressure on supply chains. Similar challenges are emerging elsewhere. Florence, Italy, a historic and modern jewellery hub renowned for its high-end artisan and gold workshops, experienced severe flooding following intense rainfall in October 2025. The event affected local infrastructure and disrupted the activities of small-scale workshops that are central to the region’s craftsmanship. These examples illustrate a broader reality: Water scarcity or excess is no longer a theoretical risk; it directly affects quality, costs, and supply chain continuity.
As a first step we developed the Nature Roadmap, a sector-specific guide that supports companies integrate nature considerations into their strategies while reflecting emerging regulatory expectations and strengthening the links between biodiversity and water. We did this through extensive consultation with leading organizations including the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the World Business Council for Sustainable Development (WBCSD), the World Economic Forum (WEF), and the Taskforce on Nature-related Financial Disclosures (TNFD).
What we noticed is that companies needed a much more granular approach to be able to implement this work within their operations; that is why we developed the Nature Action Playbook, which provides companies with practical first steps focused on governance, risk assessment and materiality. We then tested these approaches through a Proof of Concept involving eight companies, generating valuable insights from real-world application. It is really interesting to see how both brands and suppliers are navigating this journey and how they are overcoming common challenges.
In parallel, thanks to the excellent input we received from civil society, we advanced our work on water stewardship through the development of a Water Stewardship Guide and Assessment Tool, equipping companies with a practical framework to understand, manage and protect water resources across their value chains, while promoting the collective, basin-level approaches needed to address shared water challenges.
What is a key milestone and what have been so far the achievements of WJI 2030?
Last week, we launched our Progress Report during a roundtable in Paris kindly hosted by member company and jewellery maison Messika. We now have a robust governance framework in place, and we have built a committed community where competitors – in an anti-trust environment – can collaborate efficiently on shared sustainability challenges. In the report you will have a clear overview of how we are advancing on the 3 pillars.
What is particularly encouraging is the progress our reporting members are making. Almost 80% of our members are now voluntarily disclosing their actions, progress and performance through the WJI 2030 Impact Action Journey Framework, demonstrating a growing commitment to transparency and accountability.
On climate action, many more companies now have validated Science Based Targets, and have established Climate Transition Plans. On nature, we have seen a clear increase in the number of companies with a nature roadmap, the number of companies with measurable, time-bound nature targets has more than doubled, and almost half of our members now have dedicated internal governance for nature. On inclusiveness and human rights, we continue to see strong uptake of human rights policies, grievance mechanisms, due diligence processes, and commitments such as the Women’s Empowerment Principles. 72% of our maison and partner members are signatories to the Women’s Empowerment Principles.
What the report demonstrates is not perfection, but momentum. Companies are moving from commitment to implementation, learning from one another, and making measurable progress year after year across climate, nature and human rights.
One milestone we are particularly proud of is the Impact Action Journey Framework. A digital framework, a solution designed to guide companies in implementing and reporting sustainability actions across the watch and jewellery industry. The framework offers structured pathways to advance climate, nature and water, and inclusiveness action through step‑by‑step guidance, capacity‑building tools, and integrated monitoring. Powered by ESG Book’s platform, it enables real‑time ESG tracking, transparent disclosure, and alignment with global standards and evolving regulations, simplifying sustainability action and reporting for companies of all sizes.
It combines core and optional KPIs aligned with leading global standards and regulations, including Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD), the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) Standards, the International Sustainability Standards Board (ISSB) Standards, the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi), and the Taskforce on Nature-related Financial Disclosures (TNFD), and the Framework supports companies navigate evolving reporting requirements while driving continuous improvement.
Since its launch, the Framework has been further strengthened through full EU Voluntary Standard for SME’s integration, new indicators on water management and living wage, and the introduction of supporting tools such as a carbon calculator for SMEs and an AI-powered reporting prefill function, supporting reduce reporting burden and improve accessibility for businesses across the watch and jewellery value chain.
From the left: Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director & Secretary General, WJI 2030; Timothy Iwata, Senior Director of Fine and High Jewelry at Prada Group; Valérie Messika, Founder and Artistic Director of Messika.
Among these, which are most important to you personally?
Human Rights
At the heart of our industry, it is always about people and communities. Respect for Human Rights needs to continue to be a priority, because our industry ultimately relies on people – across mining, manufacturing, retail, craftsmanship and leadership. A resilient value chain is one where people are treated with dignity, and where businesses understand their responsibility beyond compliance.
One example is the Human Rights Navigator, which we developed to support companies in understanding and navigating the increasingly complex human rights policy and regulatory landscape. The tool offers a comprehensive overview of the most salient human rights risks across the watch and jewellery value chain, while helping businesses understand emerging regulatory requirements and implement effective human rights due diligence practices.
Gender Equality and Inclusiveness
Gender equality has been a particularly important area of focus for us because it is fundamental to the future relevance and resilience of our industry. We should not forget that 90% of consumer behaviour is influenced by women.
While women are expected to control approximately 75% of discretionary spending globally by 2028, they remain underrepresented in leadership positions. Today, women hold only around 30% of senior leadership roles, earn on average 20% less than men, and account for just 6% of CEOs worldwide. These figures highlight not only a social challenge but also a business opportunity.
I believe that a more inclusive industry is a stronger industry. When diverse perspectives are represented in decision-making, organizations are better positioned to innovate, attract talent, respond to consumer expectations, and build long-term resilience.
One of the achievements I am most proud of is our collaboration with UN Women, which has enabled us to translate ambition into practical action. Together, we have developed tools, guidance, and capacity-building programmes that support companies embed gender equality across their operations and value chains.
A key focus has been advancing Gender-Responsive Procurement, an area with enormous potential to drive impact beyond a company’s own workforce. Through our partnership with UN Women and our members, we have developed practical resources to support companies engage suppliers through a gender lens, strengthen accountability, and integrate gender considerations into procurement and sourcing practices. The objective is simple: to ensure that gender equality is not treated as a standalone initiative but becomes embedded within core business decisions.
Beyond procurement, we have worked extensively to support companies in adopting and implementing the Women’s Empowerment Principles (WEPs). This has included awareness-raising initiatives, training programmes, and the publication of practical guidance and industry case studies that support companies move from commitment to measurable action.
Most recently, together with UN Women, we launched a cross-sector effort to strengthen transparency and accountability on gender equality. Building on extensive cross-sector consultation across industries, involving stakeholders from the fashion, food and beverage, banking, data, and watch and jewellery sectors, among others, we have developed a WEPs Transparency & Accountability Roadmap that supports companies in measuring, managing, and disclosing their gender-related impacts across the workplace, marketplace, and community.
Figure 4 – Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director & Secretary General, WJI 2030.
Talent & Craftsmanship
The future of the watch and jewellery industry will not be shaped by technology alone – it will be shaped by the hands, hearts, and talents of the next generation.
For centuries, craftsmanship has been the soul of our industry. Behind every exceptional watch, every precious jewel, and every iconic creation lies a craftsperson whose skills transform raw materials into objects of beauty, meaning, and lasting value. These skills cannot be replicated by machines alone; they are passed from one generation to the next through dedication, mentorship, and passion.
Last week, I had the privilege of serving on the jury of the second edition of the Kering Generation Award X Jewelry, held in Paris during Haute Couture Week, in collaboration with CIBJO and the Poli.Design – Politecnico di Milano. What impressed me most was the quality, ambition, and ingenuity of the solutions presented. Under the theme “Second Chance, First Choice,” startups and students challenged us to rethink how our industry can reduce its environmental footprint through innovation in materials, technologies, AI, packaging, and circular business models.
Investing in youth skills is therefore not only an investment in employment – but it is also an investment in preserving our industry’s heritage while preparing it for the future. Young people bring fresh ideas, digital fluency, creativity, and a new perspective on sustainability and innovation. When combined with the wisdom of master artisans, they become the guardians and innovators of craftsmanship.
In a world of rapid change, craftsmanship remains one of our greatest competitive advantages. By empowering young talent, supporting apprenticeships, and celebrating artisanal excellence, we ensure that the extraordinary skills that define our industry continue to thrive for generations to come.
The greatest luxury is not only the product we create, but the talent we preserve. The future of our industry depends on our ability to inspire, develop, and champion the next generation of craftsmen and craftswomen.
How do these achievements link to your focus and efforts over a 25-year period working in the industry?
When I look back on the past 25 years, there is a common thread running through everything I’ve done: action on the ground and collaboration.
I have always been an “activist” on integrate sustainability as part of the core business strategy and moving beyond compliance to shape systematic change in the value chain.
Do we need a law to do the right thing? And what do we do when no one is watching?
Compliance is essential – but it is not enough. Sustainability must go beyond ticking boxes to reshape business models and embedding resilience at the core of strategy. This is not a “soft” agenda. It is about protecting business continuity, competitiveness, and reputation. The cost of inaction is already tangible.
In our industry, trust is everything. It underpins brand value, customer loyalty, and long-term growth. When trust is compromised – whether due to environmental damage, social issues, or lack of transparency – the reputational and financial consequences are significant and often irreversible. Whether we are talking about responsible sourcing, traceability, human rights, gender equality, nature conservation or industry collaboration, they are all ultimately about strengthening trust across the value chain.
I’ve always believed that the future of our industry depends on protecting what makes it unique – its craftsmanship, creativity, heritage and emotional value – while ensuring that the way we operate reflects the expectations of today’s world. A beautiful piece of jewellery needs a beautiful story behind it. The work we are doing through WJI 2030 is a continuation of that journey.
My hope is that we continue to work together to create an industry that not only survives future challenges, but thrives because it is more inclusive, more transparent and more resilient.
What are the priorities in terms of what needs to be done against the backdrop of the Sustainable Development Goals? Are they still achievable?
The findings of The Sustainable Development Goals Report 2026 are a stark reminder that urgent action is needed. With only 36% of assessable SDG targets on track or making moderate progress, and 15% moving in reverse, the international community must focus on a few critical priorities that can accelerate progress across multiple Goals.
First, we need to accelerate the energy transition. Scaling renewable energy is essential for addressing climate change and strengthening long-term economic resilience. The urgency is clear: according to the SDG Report 2026, global temperatures reached 1.43°C above pre-industrial levels in 2025, while atmospheric CO₂ concentrations rose to their highest level in two million years.
Second, gender equality and inclusiveness must remain at the centre of development efforts. Empowering women and girls are one of the most powerful catalysts for sustainable development, driving positive outcomes across education, health, economic participation, and community resilience.
Third, we must put collaboration first. No government, company, or organization can deliver the Sustainable Development Goals alone. The challenges we face – from climate change and nature loss to inequality and geopolitical instability – are deeply interconnected and require collective action, shared responsibility, and stronger partnerships across sectors and geographies.
So, are the SDGs still achievable? I believe they are, but only if we move from ambition to implementation at greater speed and scale, together.
Precisely because our industry is not built around necessity, we have an even greater responsibility to be a force for positive change and contribute to this agenda.
Iris, what is your ultimate dream for the industry?
My dream is for the industry to become a place where inclusion feels natural – not exceptional. A place where people of different backgrounds and identities have equal opportunities to contribute to strategy, craftsmanship, and leadership. I believe luxury has a unique cultural influence, and with that comes a responsibility to show that beauty, exceptional craftsmanship, innovation, excellence, and equality can coexist. If we move in this direction, the watch and jewellery industry will not just create extraordinary pieces – it will quietly but powerfully demonstrate how a sector can advance equality, and long‑term resilience. My hope is simply that we play our part, learn from others, and keep accelerating together.
Kering Generation Award X Jewelry, held in Paris during Haute Couture Week, 9 July 2026. Credit: Courtesy of Kering.
